ULWalkingPhil wrote:A good quality UV filter is all you need and maybe a circular polarizing filter.
GPSGuided wrote:Is the statement below a true statement?
"In the digital world with RAW and Photoshop, colour filters are no longer of relevance in the field."
nickthetasmaniac wrote:GPSGuided wrote:Is the statement below a true statement?
"In the digital world with RAW and Photoshop, colour filters are no longer of relevance in the field."
Basically. As nuts mentioned above, polarising is one of the only filter-related things that simply cannot be replicated in photoshop.
Adding to my previous reply, if you do want to get into the world of long-exposures, avoid stopping your lenses aperture down too far (say numbers bigger than f11). On todays pixel-dense digital sensors diffraction - causing visible softness - is a significant issue...
GPSGuided wrote:To clarify, when I said "colour filter", I referred to those tinted colour filters, including graduated and temp correction filters. Polariser excluded.
Now, was that a true or false statement?
icefest wrote:Do you suggest neutral filters or decreased ISO instead?
icefest wrote:Thanks for the explanation.
I didn't realise that it could be that much of an issue, sure I know about diffraction but didn't realise we made sensors that small.
DaveNoble wrote:The filters you carry with you depends on the style of photography you want to do. A Circular polarising filter (make sure you get one suitable for digital sensors) - can be used to reduce reflection from water, wet leaves etc, but should be used sparingly - as you can over saturate your image. A neutral density filter is useful for taking long exposure shots of waterfalls, creeks etc. Some cameras have these built in. A variable ND filter can be useful in a range of conditions - but they tend to be thicker and can cause vignetting. Graduated ND filters came in a variety of types - screw in or rectangular ones that need a special holder and hard or soft transitions. These filters are very useful for landscape work - a good example where they are useful is when shooting clouds and a landscape. A normal exposure for the landscape will result in the clouds being washed out. To some extent you can correct the sky using post processing software - but it is preferable to get it right with the camera. With all ND filters it is necessary to spend $$$ for good ones. Cheap ones can have a tendency to leave a colour cast on your photo.
One more consideration is the size of the filter. Buy ones for your largest lens - and then you can also use them for smaller lenses with step down rings.
Dave
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