Three Week Tasmanian Hike

[tom_b]

Hi guys,

I was hoping to plan an extended hike down in Tasmania sometime in 2017 (pending leave etc). Having just finished the AAWT (25 days) I was wondering if there was a route similar to it in Tasmania in that it connects a lot of the best bushwalking without having to drive to different places.

The main problem with planning a longer trip like this is that I have never actually been to Tasmania so I have no experience walking there and don't know what the best bits to do are. It doesn't need to be as long as the AAWT, I just wanted to connect some of Tasmania's highlights within a couple of hundred k's.

Is this possible? If not, are there any other walks that you would suggest instead?

[devoswitch]

Hey Tom. I'm sure many people will chime in with some incredible suggestions. There's a really inspirational post on here (do a search or maybe someone in the know will post a link) called 'A traverse of south west Tasmania' by Cam H. Very incredible what he accomplished in that time. Maybe you could look at something like that. Then again I'm from the south down here and maybe slightly biased.

[RonK]

You could start with the Tasmanian Trail, continue on the South Coast Track and perhaps then the Port Davey Track. After that I don't know what would link up but that's probably three weeks worth anyway.

[Scottyk]

Do the Penguin to Cradle then straight onto the Overland Track then do Frenchman's Cap
You would have to hitch a ride for about 25km to the start of the Frenchman's bit but other than that it's independent of cars

[Tortoise]

You could start with the Tasmanian Trail, continue on the South Coast Track and perhaps then the Port Davey Track. After that I don't know what would link up but that's probably three weeks worth anyway.

I think the Tasmanian Trail would be a completely different experience from the AAWT - lots of roads and towns, with some sections of bush if I understand it correctly.

There's a really inspirational post on here (do a search or maybe someone in the know will post a link) called 'A traverse of south west Tasmania' by Cam H. Very incredible what he accomplished in that time. Maybe you could look at something like that. Then again I'm from the south down here and maybe slightly biased.

Yes, that's a phenomenal trip, but not one I'd suggest for someone who has never walked in Tassie.

Do the Penguin to Cradle then straight onto the Overland Track then do Frenchman's Cap
You would have to hitch a ride for about 25km to the start of the Frenchman's bit but other than that it's independent of cars

I reckon that'd be an excellent option - a great introduction to some iconic Tassie places. There are plenty of options to do less frequented side trips on the OLT, if you need to get away from people.
One current glitch is that a section of the Penguin Cradle Trail has been impassable since the winter floods, with all the land between the water and the vertical bits washed away in a spot or two. Not an easy fix, but folk in the North West Walking Club are looking at alternative route options. That 2 day Leven Canyon section is very challenging to maintain.

[stepbystep]

The 'best bits' of Tassie can be linked up in a through walk from Penguin through to Cockle Creek. However several secstions are off track so highly challenging for some. So it takes a bit of research...but heaps of options.

If going all on track you can link the South Coast Track to Port Davey Track to Western/Eastern Arthurs tracks, or as others say PCT/OLT & Frenchmans.

[bumpingbill]

Three weeks?

Start at the beginning of the Eastern Arthurs (Farmhouse Creek), do a traverse and then connect to the Western Arthurs walking to Oberon and then down Alpha Moraine. That's probably 10-12 days or so.

From there, head down to McKays Track and walk into Melaleuca on the Port Davey Track. That'll get to you approx 14-16 days.

Then exit from there along the South Coast Track. That's probably another 5-7. If you've planned it well, you could fly some food into Melaleuca and pick it up on your way through. Save some weight.

If you want a few extra points for difficulty, head north at New River Lagoon and walk up onto Precipitous Bluff, and exit the park over the Southern Ranges.

That's a *monster* walk though. You'd want to have a *lot* of experience and fitness. Probably significantly more difficult than AAWT, but my god the things you'd see!

EDIT: I just want to say again this is a huge walk, and I'm being a somewhat facetious.

On a more serious matter, if you've done AAWT you could do the Tassie Overland Track. It's no where near as long, but it's a stunning walk. For a bit of extra time, stop off at Pine Valley and explore. You could get 1-2 weeks out of that. Then go up Frenchman's for a finale (though not linked)

[MrWalker]

The Tasmanian Trail avoids towns and roads as much as possible, but also avoids all national parks, because it is primarily designed for horses. So although it gives a very nice cross-section of rural Tasmania, mainly farms and forests, it does not include any of the best scenery. It is pleasant walk and takes around 20 days, but I would recommend it as a good ride on a mountain bike, rather than a walk.

The Penguin to Cradle Trail is currently in very poor condition. Check the website for details. http://www.nwwc.org.au/index.php/en-au/about-the-club/penguin-cradle
The pleasant walk along the lower sections of the Leven River has been messed up by flood damage and although not impassable requires a lot of scrambling through fallen trees. The next section to Gunns Plains is well above the river but has more fallen trees and is slow if wearing a day-pack (due to scrambling through tree-falls), but would be very slow with a larger overnight pack. Then the most interesting section along the Leven Canyon is closed (flood damage) and probably not passable. I did the section from Dial Range to Gunns Plains last weekend and found it very tedious and the rain-forest sections not nearly as interesting as other areas of Tasmania. I suggest avoiding it until it has been cleaned up (or carry a chainsaw with you).

The only section of the Penguin Cradle Trail worth considering right now is Taylors Flats to the Cradle Mt area, which is very exposed and not recommended in poor weather, so be careful planning that more than a few days in advance.

The closure of the Mersey Forest Rd cuts out quite a few other long connected walks, but if you are desperate for a long walk (other than Port Davey-South Cape Track), you can start at Lake Ada and walk through the Walls of Jerusalem and out to the Overland Track. I have never been that way and believe some good navigation is required, so this may not be suitable for someone not used to faint Tasmanian tracks.

[tom_b]

Thanks for all of your replies guys! I think I may have undersold myself a bit in terms of navigation and fitness. The AAWT didn't really have any navigation (I don't think I even pulled out my compass once), but I am definitely still capable of remote nav. I think I should be able to manage any of the walks in terms of fitness. I can always just go slower if I need to.

It seems that a few trips down may be needed. One or two shorter hikes to become more familiar with the terrain and then an extended one after that.

It sounds like the Tasmanian Trail might be a bit of a firetrail bash so I don't think I will do that. I need to do more research but you guys have definitely got ideas going in the back of my head.

Is there a chance that over the next few months/year the PCT is going to improve at all? Otherwise it seems like that one should be avoided as well.

[tom_b]

Hey Tom. I'm sure many people will chime in with some incredible suggestions. There's a really inspirational post on here (do a search or maybe someone in the know will post a link) called 'A traverse of south west Tasmania' by Cam H. Very incredible what he accomplished in that time. Maybe you could look at something like that. Then again I'm from the south down here and maybe slightly biased.

I just had a look at his stuff. Holy smoke that's amazing! I definitely am not that fast. 27k/day on the AAWT definitely does not compare to 42.3k/day on the 12 different 'long walks'. I'm only 18 so maybe one day! But not currently at least... Inspirational nonetheless.

[Azza]

Thanks for all of your replies guys! I think I may have undersold myself a bit in terms of navigation and fitness. The AAWT didn't really have any navigation (I don't think I even pulled out my compass once), but I am definitely still capable of remote nav. I think I should be able to manage any of the walks in terms of fitness. I can always just go slower if I need to.

Just be mindful of carrying an oversized and overweight pack through something like the Western / Eastern Arthurs, its not always as simple as fit enough to manage.
There are actually some pretty significant challenges in terms of steep terrain, tree roots, exposure and scrambling that aren't that compatible with carrying a huge load with weeks worth of food.
Track can also be a misleading term in regard to South West Tassie.

I'd says its a wise idea to get a taste of whats on offer down here, you wouldn't be the first 18 year old from the ACT to turn up on the forum with grand plans of an epic trip - and they don't always end well.

[Scottyk]

Hey Tom. I'm sure many people will chime in with some incredible suggestions. There's a really inspirational post on here (do a search or maybe someone in the know will post a link) called 'A traverse of south west Tasmania' by Cam H. Very incredible what he accomplished in that time. Maybe you could look at something like that. Then again I'm from the south down here and maybe slightly biased.

I just had a look at his stuff. Holy smoke that's amazing! I definitely am not that fast. 27k/day on the AAWT definitely does not compare to 42.3k/day on the 12 different 'long walks'. I'm only 18 so maybe one day! But not currently at least... Inspirational nonetheless.

Being 18 I would advise against the harder southwest walks like the Western Arthurs etc
The Penguin to Cradle is a good start as you get the chance to re-supply during and at the end due so no need for really heavy packs
The Overland Track has no resupply but and is a good challenge and you're able to take some challenging side trips if you like, Pelion West, Pine Valley etc
Frenchman's is another small step above the Overland in terms of difficulty buy is different country to the Overland so you wouldn't feel like for doing more of the same, it really is a nice area.
Breaking it up into 3 parts gives you the opportunity to get your gear sorted a little as you go and reduces the need to have to carry a pack with 2 weeks food into the southwest.
Once you are in the southwest on some of the walks mentioned you are committed and plenty of people have found out just how hard it can be.
As Azza said above things became very difficult and sometimes impossible with a 20kg pack on so best to work up to it rather than be setting of an epirb in the middle a hard walk because you bit off more than you could chew!

[tom_b]

That sounds like a good idea. I think splitting it up is sensible in terms of carrying food. I looked at Cam H's gear list and mine was nearly exactly the same (same brands, gear, weight). Heavier packs definitely exponentially become more of an issue the rougher the terrain becomes though.

I agree it wouldn't be good to go and plan a massive trip without doing any walking there first. However I was told the same thing about the Vic Alps but SW Tas would be more than a few levels above that without a doubt...

I have some mates who did the Western Arthurs a couple of weeks ago (I didn't go as I was on the AAWT) and they didn't have too much trouble with it (and have done significantly less walking/aren't as fit).

I definitely feel as if it is easy for me to fall into the trap of being young and thinking I am better than I am/not understand what I am actually signing myself up for. But I also have had people tell me I was too young to run marathons at 16yo, ultras at 17yo, and walk the AAWT (just my mate and I) at 18yo.
I've always had people tell me I can't do things, so it's about finding the balance.

One of my friends family has a 'shack' down there so I might try spend a while there doing some of the walks/runs just to gain some experience. The other option is to do some walks with someone else who has more experience to learn off.

I know I run the risk of coming across as the typical teenager with the 'do anything' attitude but I really don't mean to. Doing a significant walk in Tassie would be at least 9 months away, most likely 11 which gives me lots of time to learn and prepare.
Tom

[Cam H]

Hey Tom,

As some of the other folks have noted, SW Tassie is a bit of a step up from the AAWT, both terrain-wise as well as meteorologically speaking. That being said, from your comments it sounds like you are in good shape, have decent gear and have a bit of experience under your belt.

Similar to what "bumpingbill" said, you might consider a combo of the South Coast and Port Davey Tracks, and if all is still going well, linking them up with the Western Arthurs. By going in that direction, you can always pull the plug if necessary at Scotts Peak Dam. As mentioned above, fly some food into Melaleuca to pick up along the way.

Best of luck.

Cam

[Walk_fat boy_walk]

I would've suggested PCT/OLT then onward from there as well, but given the reported state of the PCT it sounds like that's off. Maybe you could just start at Leven Canyon, which pretty much leaves the "best bits" of the PCT (particularly if you do a side trip to Reynolds Falls), then the OLT. From there, you could hitch/bus to Frenchmans as suggested, (or even head along the King Williams and Denisons, but need to be good with off-track nav)... OR... once you get near the end of the OLT, you could head up to Junction Lake via the Never Never or Lake Artemis (after a diversion to Lk St Clair to pick up a food drop , and maybe up to Pine Valley for a look at the Labyrinth etc.), on to the Walls of Jerusalem, and maybe even then onto the Plateau and out at any number of places (Rinadeena Falls, Lk Mackenzie, Higgs Track etc.). The extension to the plateau would also require good off track nav, and has limited transport options from the end, but in general is pretty easy walking. With side trips and exploration days around Pine Valley and the WoJ I'd imagine that sort of itinerary would take care of a reasonably large slice of your 3 weeks.

The suggestion to do a loop from Farmhouse Ck, over the Arthurs and around to the SCT would be an absolute cracker, but as mentioned is a pretty serious undertaking, and organizing food drops might be a bit more involved.

Whatever you decide you can come back to the forum for more specific advice on your chosen route.

[Mowser]

Tassie is a great spot for 3 weekers. Here's my 2 bobs worth:
I did the following trip in Jan/Feb 2004: Farmhouse creek-Eastern Arthurs-Arthur Plains-Port Davey Track-South Coast Track (with a side trip up Precipitous Bluff from NRL) and out via South coast. On this trip we had rain and snow for 23 out of 26 days (which affected progress greatly), so as long as you have a good weather you should be able to knock that over in less than 3 weeks.

Another option is the full traverse of the Eastern and Western arthurs. I would recommend doing this west to east (starting at scotts peak dam) and normally takes around 10 to 14 days. I would have to say that this is most likely the best extended hike in Australia.

Otherwise for something a bit more relaxing and as recommended previously the Penguin-Cradle trail followed by Overland track is a very good option. You can then spend some time on the OLT knocking off all the peaks as you head south!