Grampians advice for newbie

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Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 12:32 pm

Hello all,

I have 2 1/2 weeks leave starting this Friday. I'm heading to Melbourne to visit my daughter, and have scheduled in a few days on the way down there to hike the Grampians.

I haven't hiked seriously before, just the odd tourist trail when traveling around Aus and OS, but am very keen to get involved and experience more of our country up close. I'm 50yo male, not overly fit but not overweight or a couch potato (81kg, 180cm), reasonably active generally.

My problem (this one anyway) is I've been planning this for a while, buying light (expensive) gear in preparation for 3-4 days in the Grampians, then for some reason that no-one can explain to me got hit with gout in my big toe and haven't been able to do the training I was planning for the past 3 weeks. Just getting better now so I got in 2 x 10km loaded pack walks on the weekend (very flat easy ground, avg 10:00-10:30 min/km, 11kg pack incl. food and water), including a 3km hill session (not many mountains in Mildura). Recovered fine from that but I certainly don't feel prepared for the Grampians Peaks Trail that I was planning on.

Can I get some suggestions for good day walks? I'll be in Halls Gap either Monday or Tuesday afternoon and have until Friday night, heading to Melb Saturday morning. I don't think I want to stay in Halls Gap all week, so suggestions of other camp sites would also be appreciated.

How hard is the GPT really? It looks easy enough on the computer screen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OynKbfEGV_A which instantly makes me think I'd be headed for trouble (ignorance is not bliss). I'll be on my own and not in any hurry.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby eggs » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 1:33 pm

Lots of day walks in the Grampians. [Not so many overnighters..:)]

Near Halls Gap some quite short but profitable walks are
* via Clematis Falls to Chatauqua Peak [the loop via Bullaces Glen is closed].
* Boronia Peak - try for sunrise :)

Anywhere in the Wonderland area.
Typically from the Wonderland Carpark we would at least do Grand Canyon / Silent Street / Pinnacle with a side trip to the Fallen Giant and Nerve Test, but a loop can be worked out via Garden of the Grampians and Turret Falls
For an alternative Pinnacle loop out of Halls Gap see https://walkingmaps.com.au/walk/3376 which picks up the Venus Baths and Splitters Falls.
Mt Rosea is a longer hike, and a good one for sunrise is Mt William - which is a bit of a road walk, but great views.

If you can get up the Northern Grampians - great walking to MacKenzie Falls, Mt Zero [very short], Hollow Mountain - fantastic, Mt Stapylton [my top pick] and longer walks to Beehive Falls+Briggs Bluff and Mt Difficult.
You could camp at the Stapylton Camp ground. [need to pay online]

see http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0011/315587/Park-note-Grampians-National-Park.pdf
But note there are still lots of closures applying - http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 4:40 pm

Thanks eggs, some google fodder there for me.

The most confusing part of this is the different descriptions for walks eg

https://walkingmaps.com.au/walk/3376 this web page says 2hr 5m 8.4km very hard

yet

http://wildsight.com.au/grampians/
The Pinnacle
Distance: 4.2km
Time: 4 hours

I'll go with your map since you've obviously walked it, but how is the Wildsight track half the distance but twice the time when they are both going to the same place (albeit starting at different points)? This means that unless I ask someone I could be completely off in my schedules. I guess I'm on holiday so shouldn't stress about time too much, but I don't want to end up sitting in camp all afternoon, or conversely missing something good because the previous walk took twice as long as expected. Having to pre-book campsites sort of establishes a set timeline I'll need to follow.

I'll put together an itinerary and post here for comment.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 5:21 pm

The following is copy/paste from a combination of the Parks Victoria Website, http://wildsight.com.au/grampians/, and a couple of other google hits
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 5:22 pm

Tuesday – 5.6km

Arrive Halls Gap around lunchtime

Chatauqua Peak and Clematis Falls
Distance: 5.6km
Time: 2.5 hours
Start/Finish: Halls Gap Botanical Gardens
From the northern end of Halls Gap Caravan Park, cross the suspension bridge into the botanical gardens and turn left, following signs to Bullaces Glen and Chatauqua Peak. The track climbs through stringybark forest to Mt Victory Road – take care crossing the road and picking up the track on the northern side. It’s a gentle ascent from the road to a junction where a left turn leads to Bullaces Glen, a lovely ferny glade. The track continues to climb, passing a small waterfall before looping around to a junction. Turn left and climb steadily to another junction at the top of a ridge. Turn right here and follow the ridge crest for 400 metres to the peak, which offers good views south over Halls Gap and north towards the Mt Gar (Mt Difficult) Range.
Return to the junction and head west towards Clematis Falls, 1.5km away. The track descends steeply with good views, to a junction 100 metres from the falls – turn left. The falls are best viewed after rain but this is a beautiful spot at any time of year. Return to the junction and head south, through attractive Manna Gum forest. Take care crossing Mt Victory Road before following the path back to the botanic gardens.

Have a look around Halls Gap Botanic Gardens?

Overnight Halls Gap Caravan park
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 5:23 pm

Wednesday – 11.4km

The Pinnacle

Distance: 9.4km
Time: 4 hours
Start/Finish: Halls Gap CP
http://www.thehikingsociety.com.au/2017 ... grampians/
https://walkingmaps.com.au/walk/3376

The Balconies
Distance: 2km
Time: 45 minutes
Start/Finish: Reed Lookout
One of the most popular walks in the park, the trip to the Balconies is not difficult and leads to outstanding views, especially late in the day when the sun paints the cliffs a glowing orange. After parking your car walk 50 metres up to Reeds Lookout which provides grandstand views over virtually the entire southern portion of the Grampians. Return to the car park and follow the track east through open heathland with impressive views north to Lake Wartook and the Mt Gar Range.
The track then winds through forest before swinging south to emerge suddenly at the cliff rim 20 metres from the Balconies, two rock slabs jutting from the cliff face. Beyond them the jagged peaks of the Serra Range stretch to the horizon. It’s a short walk back to the car park.

Boroka lookout

Overnight Smiths Mill Campground
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 5:25 pm

Thursday - 12km

MacKenzie Falls River Walk

Distance: 7km
Time: 2-3 hours
Grade: Medium
Start: Zumsteins Picnic Ground
Follow the track to Fish Falls where the track becomes steeper, meandering through a large gorge beside the river to the base of MacKenzie Falls.

Hollow Mountain
Distance: 2.2km return
Time: 1-1½ hours
Grade: 3 Short steep hills, formed track some obstacles, many steps.
Start: Hollow Mountain Carpark
This walk is suitable for fit and energetic walkers and can involve slippery track surfaces, rock hopping and rock scrambling. From the car park, follow the sign-posted gravel track as it climbs gradually through a wide open gully surrounded by rocky cliffs. Once on rock, the track climbs steeply over rocky ledges and past wind scoured caverns to a rocky summit which offers views over Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre and the Wimmera Plains. Return by the same route.

Mt Zero
Distance: 2.8 km return
Time: 1 - 1½ hours
Grade: medium
Start: Mt Zero Picnic Area
From the picnic area, carefully cross the Halls Gap-Mt Zero Road and track markers will guide you up the rocky hillside. Near the top of the ridge the track becomes steeper to rock steps that lead up to the summit. Enjoy views of Mt Stapylton and the surrounding Wimmera plains. Return by the same route.

Overnight Stapleton Campground
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 5:26 pm

Friday – 12.2km

Mt Stapylton Loop

Distance: 12.2km
Time: 5.5 hours
Start/Finish: Stapylton Campground
The track leaves the northern end of the campground and passes through scrubby bushland for 1.4km to cross Pohlner Rd, before continuing 100 metres to a junction. Follow the right-hand track; you will return from the left later in the day. Shortly after a junction a series of rock steps leads up on to a ridgeline, where the track levels out and reaches another junction. Turn left, following the sign to Mt Stapylton, and traverse rocky escarpments along a route marked by painted arrows before dropping into a small gully – look for arrows to mark the way. At the next junction turn right and descend to a ravine. At the end of the ravine turn sharply left and climb for 100 metres up a bare rock ramp. Pass a large cave on the right and climb to a rocky viewpoint on Mt Stapylton for spectacular views. To return to the campground, follow the route back down the ramp, into the gully and to the track junction, and follow the signposted track to Mt Zero Picnic Area to the right. Quickly descend another rocky ramp, passing a curious formation known as Bird Rock into a natural amphitheatre framed by the giant orange cliffs of Mt Stapylton. At a junction on the other side of the amphitheatre turn left and walk for 2.7km to the track junction at the start of the walk. Turn right to cross Pohlner Rd and return to Stapylton Campground.

Overnight Halls Gap CP
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 5:32 pm

The Parks Vic track updates states:

Closed Walking Tracks
Mt Stapylton Loop (Pohlners rd to Summit East section – redevelopment planned)

Does this rule out the Mt Stapleton walk on the Friday, or would there be an alternate route?

If no Stapleton Loop, then Friday could be:

Mount Rosea
Distance: 9.4km
Time: 4.5 hours
Start/Finish: Rosea car park
The highest peak close to Halls Gap is the site of an excellent day trip through rugged Grampians scenery. The track begins with a steady climb through stringybark forest before reaching more exposed rocky areas typical of the Grampians – follow cairns as the track crosses over rock and winds between giant boulders and grass trees. Turn right when the track hits the cliff rim and watch for rock cairns and painted arrows as the track drops into a gully and climbs out the other side. This section is steep and negotiates stone steps and a series of rock crevasses and overhangs. The path levels out and passes between more boulders before reaching the rim of Mt Rosea’s huge east-facing cliffs. Follow the rim south to a bridge and a hair-raising crossing over a narrow fissure known as the Gate of the East Wind. Walk through a cave and cross more rock to a junction 100 metres from the summit. Follow the short side-trip to the summit, marked by a distance marker, and drink in the views before returning via the same route.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby neilmny » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 5:45 pm

Hi timh - Pinnacle walks.
The first one (walkingmaps) is from Halls Gap the second (wildsight) is from Wonderland Car Park.


Chatauqua Peak and Clematis Falls - a nice walk
Last edited by neilmny on Tue 12 Sep, 2017 5:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby eggs » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 5:46 pm

The Pinnacle sits in the middle of the ridge cliff line above Halls Gap.
If you go from Halls Gap there is a lot of climbing and at least 3 options for the approach route. [Walkingmaps reference shows 2 of these]
If you go from the Wonderland Carpark you are much closer but there is still a climb. [wildsight reference]
The quickest and easiest approach is from the Sundial carpark / Picnic ground - where there is little climbing as you work along the ridgetop.

As for your Chatauqua Peak reference - that description starts with Bullaces Glen - which I believe is still closed - so you would have to go directly to Clematis Falls and up and then trace your route back for the return leg.

Stapylton route is fine over Flat Rock and return - and not all that long as a result. Start at the Mt Zero Picnic Area, not the campground.
[The most adventurous route to Stapylton lies elsewhere - but it is not a marked or advertised route and I would not venture on it solo for the first time.]
The marked route also has some "adventure" on it as well. Your notes above seem to stop short of the top - but there are some easy scrambles and a nerve testing ledge which rounds away to a drop on one side when going right to the top.
There is a geo cache in Bird Rock if you explore around for it.
Also look for rock climbers on the vast orange Taipan Wall above that spot.

I suggest you get some maps and pamphlets when you are in Halls Gap.
There are a lot of tracks in the Wonderland section, but I cannot seem to see anything written up on the Parks website.

Its a bit of a drive from Halls Gap - but if you like watching rock climbers - you could get out to Mt Arapiles and do the loop walk to the top there as well.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 6:42 pm

eggs wrote:If you go from Halls Gap there is a lot of climbing and at least 3 options for the approach route. [Walkingmaps reference shows 2 of these]

I'd like to have a crack at the more challenging route, the Walkingmaps track looks good and similar to the other one I found.

eggs wrote:
As for your Chatauqua Peak reference - that description starts with Bullaces Glen - which I believe is still closed - so you would have to go directly to Clematis Falls and up and then trace your route back for the return leg.

Thanks, can't find any reference to the closed track so will follow that up.
eggs wrote:Stapylton route is fine over Flat Rock and return - and not all that long as a result. Start at the Mt Zero Picnic Area, not the campground.

Great info, thanks

eggs wrote:I suggest you get some maps and pamphlets when you are in Halls Gap.


I have the SV Maps Northern Grampians topo so will study that now I know what I'm looking for. I'll also leave home a bit earlier so I can spend some time at the visitors centre, get the latest info, then revise my plans as necessary.

Thanks again.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 6:46 pm

neilmny wrote:Hi timh - Pinnacle walks.
The first one (walkingmaps) is from Halls Gap the second (wildsight) is from Wonderland Car Park.


Chatauqua Peak and Clematis Falls - a nice walk


Thanks, it's getting easier to understand now I am getting familiar with everything.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 8:23 pm

OK, I'll try to get all the really stupid questions out of the way while I still have newbie status....

I've just started using hiking poles and I'm impressed, they seem to work well for me and my sometimes dodgy knees (I also need them to hold my tent up). I haven't used them hiking in mountains yet, but I'd imagine they'd be even more useful there.

Would you take them on these day walks in the Grampians though?

I'll only have a 5kg day pack (2.5l water bladder, plus fleece, rain jacket, FAK, PLB, lunch/snacks - obviously not carrying the tent). It looks like there's a bit of scrambling over rocks, I'm concerned they'd get in the way and I'd regret carrying them. I don't have a way to strap them to my day pack, but I guess I could rig something up.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby neilmny » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 8:37 pm

With dodgy knees I'd take them if you can (I also have dodgy knees and take poles everywhere). There are some fairly long descents in the Grampians almost everything is up or down.
Some descents are on steel mesh stairs (Pinnacle to Halls Gap the "front" way). They were put in after the floods and fires a few years back and obviously not suitable for poles.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby peregrinator » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 9:00 pm

It's hard to say whether you'll be helped or hindered by using poles there. So a compromise I'd suggest is to try using just one rather than two poles. Means you still have a free hand, plus if you decide the pole is not needed for a while (e.g. in the rocky sections with the metal ladders neilmny refers to and possibly others), it will probably be easier to attach one rather than two to your pack.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Tue 12 Sep, 2017 9:33 pm

Thanks. I'll take both poles on the first short walk and see how I get on with just one or both.

I've had a look at my day pack (it's just a small travel backpack, not a dedicated hiking pack) and reckon I can rig up something similar to the pole holders on my Exos pack with cord locks and shock cord I have laying around.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby timh » Sun 24 Sep, 2017 5:19 pm

OK, back home, thought I'd close off this thread for any future newbies with a similar question.

Tuesday afternoon hiked Chatauqua Peak/Clematis Falls, excellent opening walk that tested my fitness.
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=19795394

Wednesday did the Pinnacle Loop from Halls gap, returned the front way down the steps. This was a fantastic experience that I'll remember for a long time. Surprised that it seemed like my fitness had improved since yesterday, obviously just getting used to climbing steps.
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatial ... d=19810214
Bit weary after this so just did some sightseeing to a couple of lookouts to fill in the day.

Thursday morning had a go at Mt Rosea - got to the section where you start to crawl though and over boulders, seemed to be a false peak then down a rocky gully before back up to what I assumed was Mt Rosea. I was getting worried about injuring myself clambering over those boulders so let discretion be the better part of valour and turned back - I didn't want to be the guy who had to get helicoptered out with a broken ankle on his 3rd day hiking. If the rest of the walk was easy (which I doubt) please don't tell me.
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatial ... d=19854232
At least I have an excuse to hike it again.

Returned to Mt Rosea carpark then hiked up to Mt Sundial. Really enjoyed this walk, it was steep and tough going for the first section, then a nice comfortable walk with really pleasant bushland and fantastic views to the top.
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatial ... d=19875630
Diverted to Bugiga campground on the way back to reccy it for my GPT hike in the near future (passed a walking group leaving as I came in - anyone from here?). Drove out to Boreang Campsite to check it out and ended up giving a Melbourne couple a ride back to Halls Gap that had just done the two days of the GPT.

Friday I decided to just walk Zummsteins to McKenzie Falls along the river. It was fairly hot for Sept - this walk goes through some fairly thick marshland with what I think was Lomandra right up against the track so you had to brush through it. Frogs croaking, wet grassy scrubby marsh, warm rocks - tiger snake heaven, I could not relax at all. I've grown up on the Murray, on the land, so have had my share of snake encounters and while I don't like them I'm not paranoid - this just went against all my self-preservation instincts. I was fully expecting to meet a grumpy, just-woken-up, horny, hungry, territorial Tiger snake at every bush. The walk wasn't that spectacular (Falls were nice) so I walked back to the ute on the bitumen road - which turned out to be ok as the view down into the river valley was pretty good most of the way. Ended up quite enjoying it surprisingly.
https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatial ... d=19854229

I ended up staying at Halls Gap caravan park the whole week. There weren't many people there and the campsite down the end (near the Pinnacles trail head) was empty apart from me and about 15 roos. I could have a campfire, but also a shower and pub counter meal - soft I know.

Image

As to carrying hiking poles - took them on all walks and never regretted having them with me (in fact I would have missed them if I left them in the ute). Stowed them a few times, notably on Mt Rosea track through the boulders, but otherwise used them 80% of the time.

No sign of the knee soreness that I was expecting, but my calves were VERY tight yesterday, and I had some pain in the top of my right foot in the later walks, not sure what that's about. No blisters (Salamon trail running shoes and thick Smartwool merino socks).

Ran out of time (or energy) to do the Boronia peak walk and any of the northern walks, so I can't wait to get back there again.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby neilmny » Sun 24 Sep, 2017 6:02 pm

Nicely done Tim thanks for the report.
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Re: Grampians advice for newbie

Postby peregrinator » Sun 24 Sep, 2017 7:27 pm

Tim, a pretty good outcome and a nice taster for what might be next. I do like your comment on the Pinnacles walk that "next time I'll go back down the way I came up" because the up route was more interesting. A lot of people seem to be programmed into thinking a walk has to be a circuit. But if part of the circuit is a dud, going out the way you came in makes much more sense. "I liked it so nice I did it twice."
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