Larapinta - best section for 4 days

[Drew]

Hello all,

My girlfriend and I are flirting with the idea of going to Alice this winter and doing 3 or 4 days of the Larapinta trail. I was hoping someone could recommend a section of the trail for this amount of time. I've read that some sections are very dull, others spectacular. Apart from choosing a more interesting section another consideration would be organising transport. We would have a limited budget, so it would be great to be able to get to our starting point and back to Alice without spending huge amounts of cash. I've read that there are some spots serviced by public transport or with enough tourist traffic to make hitch-hiking back to Alice feasible.

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers.

[srforum112]

I walked the whole track in May. Interesting that you read that some sections are really dull, don't agree that this is the case. There are sections that are less scenic but still interesting.

I found the most spectacular and hardest sections of the walk was the middle through Hugh Gorge into razorback ridge, birthday waterhole and over Brinkley's Bluff into Standley Chasm - sections 4-6. Some people would probably say section 6 is boring as you walk 30kms across the Alice Valley from the Chewing Ranges to the Heavitree Ranges (or visa versa as we did). You could walk between Ellery Creek and Hugh Gorge in one day or 3/4 of the way. I found it easy walking and interesting as you see the ranges all around you change colour during the day.

We met two guys walking for a few days and they choose to walk sections 9 to 7 - Ormiston Gorge to Ellery Creek. If you choose this section its worth completing the pound walk at Ormiston and the walk. The track from Ormiston to Waterfall Gorge takes you to Giles Lookout that has great views to Mt Sonder and the Ormiston Pound. The track progresses past Waterfall Gorge and through Pioneer Valley to Inarlanga Pass (full of boulders and cycads) to Serpentine Dam. You can also visit the Orche pits as well. In the next section the views from Counts Point are amazing and a highlight of our walk (Serpentine Dam to Serpentine Gorge). The track from Serpentine Gorge to Ellery Creek is like a roller coaster.....

I'd suggested investing in John Chapmans book on the Larapinta Trail or check out larapinta trail website.

It seems easy enough to organise transport to Ormiston Gorge, Ellery Creek or Standley Chasm. I think Alice Wanders (1800 722111) and other companies regularly visit these places. Don't know how easy it is to find a lift, we noticed quite a few tourists at Ormiston Gorge and Ellery Creek. The two guys who walked sections 9-7 were keen to hitch from Ellery Creek to Standley Chasm but ended up organising a transfer with one of the tour companies at a cost. Not sure how easy it is to get a lift from tourists.

Don't know about public transport options, might be worth ringing the Alice Springs Tourist Information or checking the Larapina Trail official website that has loads of information

Its a great walk!

[Drew]

Thanks a lot for the reply, that's helpful. We haven't really decided if we're going or not yet (the other option is the Thorsborne Trail on Hinchinbrook Island...). If we do decide to then I'll definitely buy Chapman's book to find out more. We're even considering driving to Alice which would obviously open up more transport options.

[Drew]

We're pretty certain now that we're going on this trip, but I'm still having trouble working out which section we should go for. Everyone seems to say that the area around Standley Chasm is the highlight. It looks like Ellery Creek to Standley Chasm (or vice versa) would be a great walk and is also accessible. It had been suggested to me that this could be completed in 4 days, but it looks like 5 or 6 is more realistic (John Chapman's book calls this a 6 day walk). 4 days might be possible, but neither my girlfriend nor I really want to do 10 or 11 hour days of walking. My girlfriend can probably be persuaded to do a 5 day walk (4 is her preferred upper limit) if it's the most interesting section.

Another 4 day option that is accessible is Ellery Creek to Orniston Gorge (or vice versa), as you said the guys you met did srforum112. It looks like this would be 4 easy enough days of 5-6 hours.

Any thoughts on which of those sections might be preferable? Or on how long it would actually take to walk Ellery to Standley?

Much appreciated,

Drew

[baldhead]

Drew

Aushiker blog from Andrew has track notes / times for the Larapinta that may be helpfull
http://aushiker.com/larapinta-trail/

Have a great trip

Cheers
Carl

[wobbly]

Drew
If your taking your own car then I'd suggest Ormiston to Sonder/Redbank or visa versa, The people at Glen Helen do a reasonable priced drop off or pick up btn these 2 spots or you may be able to cadge a lift from the campers at Ormiston or Redbank.. Take lilos and explore redbank gorge if you can. And if you are prepared to carry water the campsite on Lookout hill has amazing views of Sonder, and Sonder and Ormiston themselves are not to be missed.
Ellery to Stanley is a great section (Hugh Gorge and Brinkley are the equal of Sonder and Ormiston) but I don't think really doable (enjoyable) in 4 days unless you are insanely fit or can get a 4wd into Hugh Gorge. The other option if you dont have a vehicle is Simspon to Stanley (Take the high route after Jay Creek).
The walk from Ellery to Ormiston is a 4 day walk but in my opinion not as spectacular as the sections either side of it and transport might be tricker,
I'd also check with the parkies to see if the sections you are considering have been badly affected by the fires last year.
Really what ever sections you do you won't be disapointed.
cheers
Pete

[srforum112]

Hi Drew
I am sure whatever section of the trail to choose you will enjoy the walk as each section has something special.

There has been allot of areas affected by fire. We found it hard to find the track on the section from Ormiston Gorge to Waterfall lookout - mainly up on the lookout. A ranger advised us of this and suggested we keep looking ahead for trail markers to ensure we didn't loose the trail. The trail was marked by blue tape.

The section between Ellery Creek and Standley Chasm is very scenic but very hard. I agree with Pete's post. The section between Redbank Gorge and Glen Helen or Ormiston Gorge has lovely views of Mt Sonder. It would be fascinating to explore Redbank Gorge on a lilo, we were told it is narrow and goes for some distance. Just a word of warnng the water is very cold!

Have a great walk
Sonja

[north-north-west]

It would be fascinating to explore Redbank Gorge on a lilo, we were told it is narrow and goes for some distance. Just a word of warnng the water is very cold!

It is, and if you're lucky enough to do it when there's been a bit of rain, there's even a small waterfall to climb up. Brilliant. One of the most fascinating places in the Centre.
You can also scrubbash your way to the back of the range and then paddle back down the creek. It's possible on either side although the scrub is a bit thicker on the east. Unless it's been burnt recently.

[Drew]

Thanks for those suggestions everyone. I think for the moment we're leaning towards Ellery to Standley over 5 days, although I'll definitely think about Ormiston to Mt Sonder. I will get in touch with the rangers to ask about fire damage too. We don't really have to make our minds up until we get there I guess.
I'm hoping that there'll be some rain up there in the next month. I imagine it would be prettier with water around, even if it's a bit cold for swimming in! I looked yesterday and there's been no recorded rain at all in Alice in the last two months.

Thanks,

Drew

[LAMEA-Gals]

Just a quick note on this section.

I've done the Ellery to Standley twice in the last three years. Once before the fires in 2010 and then I did it with another group finishing last week. The fires have had a big impact on this section and parts of the track are nearly unrecogisable to when I did it in 2010 (mainly around Fringe Lilly camp, and Rocky saddle, upper Hugh Gorge). A bit sad as I remember this section being very beautiful but fires are a part of the natural cycle.

All the sections were still well marked with the blue arrows - only a couple of points. The route up the Razorback from Fringe Lilly was being missed by a number of groups. People were following a track that went past the campsite instead of following the correct route up the ridge. The other bit that was a wee bit vague was the Rocky Gully to Hugh Gorge section. The plants are growing rapidly after the fire obscuring the track in places. Nothing drastic but you may need to pay attention in parts.

[Drew]

Thanks for that info LAMEA-Gals.

Would you say that the fire damage is bad enough in terms of the beauty of the area to make considering another route worthwhile? Either Ellery to Ormiston or Ormiston to Mt Sonder would be my other options, as discussed above.

Also, just out of interest, how long did you take to complete the Ellery to Standley section?

Cheers

[LAMEA-Gals]

The fire damage isn't so bad that it ruins the section. The vistas on the Razorback are still fabulous and the valley leading up to Stuart Pass and Brinkley Bluff hasn't been affected. I noticed it more cause I'd been there pre-fires but my two walking companions who hadn't thought the Ellery to Standley Chasm section was the highlight of the trip.

Re. time to complete
Day 1 - Ellery to Rocky Gully
Day 2 - Rocky gully to Hugh Gorge
Day 3 - Hugh Gorge to Fringe Lilly
Day 4 - Fringe Lilly to Stuart Pass
Day 5 - Stuart Pass to Standley

First 3 days we finished early afternoon and relaxed around camp. Last 2 days were more demanding.
Some groups were combining our day 3 and 4 - ie doing Birthday Waterhole to Hugh Gorge but they all looked shattered after the walk - it would be over 8 hours walking.

Hope that helps.

[Drew]

Excellent, that's just what I wanted to hear.
Cheers.

[wildlight]

Hi LAMEA-Gals

What time did you start each day?

Missus and I are doing an end to end in 3 weeks, I am dreading it. I am as fit as someone 50kg overweight can be... she is built like a greyhound, with speed to match!

Can you- or someone else- tell me this- how tricky is the climb DOWN from Brinkley Bluff if you are heading west? Is it a 'climb" or just a "steep walk"?

SafeSteps

Wildlight

[LAMEA-Gals]

Hey Wildlight

We were starting pretty early - always on the track by 7.45am (sometimes 7.00am). I'd recommend making the effort to start early if the days are predicted over 30 degrees.

Re. down Brinkley Bluff - its a steep walk down for the first 40 minutes past the cairn but gets better graded once you are in the first saddle. I don't like heights but found it very straight-forward (probably the Razorback is more exposed). Take your time, use a walking pole if you are into them and there are plenty of handholds and footholds in the steeper sections (and ignore the greyhounds cracking pace!!)

I think the main issue if you are feeling out of shape is the hard, rocky track and the creek scrambles if you have bad knees. It can be pretty aerobic walking with a heavy pack and your feet will take a beating. If you are heading west you'll have some cruisy days to warm up until around Jay Creek and then is gets a bit rougher.

Enjoy

[wildlight]

Hey LAMEA-Gals

Many thanks for that info. Our tickets are booked- so we're set to go. I have allowed- ready for this... 27 days to complete this walk, in terms of food allocation at the drops, and planning the water carries. I find that an extra 5 kg or 7 kg on my shoulders is not much of an issue ( extra water ) I'd be not much quicker without the extra weight. I s'pose it makes sense when you consider the small percentage of my "total" weight that 7kg would add- plus you're lightening the pack from the first hour, by drinking the water.

My experience is extensive- and I mean REALLY extensive in multi-day rugged off-track, in the steep country of the Vic Alps. As a guide, I would max out at about 3 or 4 Chapman hours per day- I know it, accept it, and plan around it. It was assuring to see you did not use the word "climb" ( or "down-climb" ! ) to describe the descent from Brinkley Bluff. My knees are fine- they'd wanna be strong like elephant's knees from carrying a lifetime of bulk! ( And they are! )

I will come back to you with some sort of a celebration or commiseration- thanks again for that invaluable insight.

SafeSteps

Wildlight

[Fuses1]

Hi, I just completed the walk in eight days solo as my walking buddy pulled out. I initially started out with a 14 day plan and all the food dropped at the usual three drops. I found that I hit my planned camp spot at lunchtime so I just walked on. I ended up giving away a lot of food or asked tourists to take it back with them and throw away. It was the best walk I have done so far. If I were to do a 4 day section, I would do Ellery creek to Standley Cham. I would walk the Ellery Creek to Hugh Gorge in one day as it is pretty much flat and less spectacular. I didnt really think the fire damage was that bad and it made one of the sections more dramatic and different. I did most of the side trips, 27 days is a long time, plenty of time to laze about and take a few days off here and there if thats your thing. Email me if you want any more info.Brett

[wildlight]

PM sent.

Safe Steps

WildLight

[Drew]

Thanks for that Fuses1. Sounds like I've picked the right section then. We might try to do Ellery Creek to Hugh Gorge in one day, although I guess that would depend how early we're able to get started. Can't wait for it.

[jez_au]

We might try to do Ellery Creek to Hugh Gorge in one day

I don't think Ellery to Hugh Gorge is particularly interesting. Hugh Gorge is an excellent start point, onto Birthday Waterhole, Brinkley Bluff and Standley Chasm. Standley Chasm to Jay Creek is also good, much better than Ellery Creek to Hugh Gorge. EC to HG is across a wide flat valley. SC to Jay Ck is mountainous still, great climbs and views. Jay Creek is accessible via 2WD from Hamilton Downs and the Tanami Road (that section of the Tanami is single lane bitumen). The access road into Hugh Gorge though I am not sure of.

Just finished Ellery Creek to Alice Springs on Sunday, having done the western half two years before. It was superb, Hugh Gorge to Jay Creek is a real highlight of the trail, fantastic views, challenging hiking, superb.

If you are a fast walker across flat open country, no difficult footings, Ellery Creek to Hugh Gorge is easy.

[Drew]

Thanks jez-au. The difficulty there is transport. The road to Hugh Gorge is 4WD only. We'll have our own 2WD car and our plan is it to drive to Standley Chasm, leave the car there, and pay the Standley Chasm people to drop us off at Ellery Creek. I haven't made definite arrangements with them yet so I'm not sure how much they'll charge us, but it will surely be a lot less than with Alice Wanderer or other tour companies, and when we finish walking our car will be there waiting for us.

If they have a 4WD then maybe we could get them to drop us at Hugh Gorge instead of Ellery. I don't mind a day of flat walking though. And it's probably best to have the least interesting day first.

[Drew]

LAMEA_Gals and Fuses1, I was wondering about water between Hugh Gorge and Standley Chasm. Was there any water at Fringe Lily Creek, Mintbush Spring or Stuart's Pass? I'd just like to plan to avoid unnecessary water carrying!

Cheers

[jez_au]

Was there any water at Fringe Lily Creek?

I was there on 11th July. Significant water pools about 300m south of campsite. No probs finding. Multiple pools.

Mintbush Spring?

Didn't look at the spring itself, quite dense bush there. But there was water flowing in the creek leaving the spring.

Stuart's Pass?

No water at all. It isn't far from Birthday Waterhole though, flat from there. Only 15-20min walk from Birthday Waterhole Junction to Birthday Waterhole campsite and water tank. Perhaps you are walking to Brinkley Bluff though...

[LAMEA-Gals]

Agree with the above points about water.

One exception - we did find water about 200metres north of Stuarts Pass. When you cross the dry river bed at Stuarts Pass head north along the river bed and there was a medium size pool used alot by dingos. I'd probably however fill up at Birthday Waterhole and carry it to Stuarts. That pool at Stuarts Pass may have dried up by now.

[jez_au]

One exception - we did find water about 200metres north of Stuarts Pass

Aah good, true I ate lunch there but did not walk up or downstream.

[Drew]

Great, thanks. I emailed Parks and of course got the predictable response that only the tank water should be relied upon.

I pretty much expected to have to fill up at Birthday Waterhole for the last two days, but was hoping there'd be some at Fringe Lily. I suppose I'll also be able to check with walkers coming the other direction for up to date conditions.

Cheers

[jez_au]

but was hoping there'd be some at Fringe Lily. I suppose I'll also be able to check with walkers coming the other direction

Yeah you will find plenty of walkers on the track to ask. Those pools at Fringe Lily are quite large and fresh, they won't be going anywhere anytime soon.