Perth to Karratha itinerary

[Hallu]

Hey guys,
after giving up on our plan to tackle the Kimberley, we've found a less expensive plan, which is to do 16 days one way between Perth and Karratha. We're both quite fit walkers, but not enthusiast swimmers (water is almost a phobia for me). We'll have a regular 2WD car, so no 4WD remote tracks for us, but driving an average of 250 km a day doesn't scare us.

The classic itinerary would be this one : http://goo.gl/maps/DTVFv
A quick stop at Namburg, some hikes in Kalbarri, exploring Shark Bay/François Péron, then Cape Range/Ningaloo, Karijini and Millstream-Chichester.

Now the unclassic one would be something like this : http://goo.gl/maps/KZliy
Skip Shark Bay and Kalbarri and add a huge chunk of outback. I'm a big sucker for obscure spots, and my travel mate loves the outback. My big question is : would it be worth it ? Is the Kalgoorie area interesting for a bushwalker (with only a 2WD at his disposal) ? What about Collier Range NP, Mount Augustus and Kennedy Range NP ? Bear in mind that I'm not very interested in mining or colonial history, that sort of thing. The second big question is, if this huge detour is worth it, which roads would be the most suitable (meaning : the less corrugated) for our vehicle (especially going to Mount Augustus) ?

So to sum it up : are the bushwalking opportunities (scenery, wildlife, crowds...) in François Péron and Kalbarri better than the ones between Kalgoorlie and Newman ? It's a tough one, because everybody's following the coast, and almost nobody knows anything about the small NPs and reserves along the Kalgoorlie/Newman axis.

Thanks in advance for your help.

PS : I don't even bother asking about a book regarding walks in the area, I've found none, only the DEC brochures and the great Atlas & Guide Perth to Pilbara by Hema.

[Le Flaneur]

Hi Hallu

I've lived in Kalgoorlie for the last eight years and would be happy to have a chat with you about your itinerary. In a week I leave to live in Tassie.

The walking in the interior (Kal north to Wiluna) really depends on the weather and I wouldn't recommend it till after March because of the heat. You probably wouldn't enjoy more than a short walk. That said there are lots of things worth seeing (more than you'd imagine) in the Goldfields. It wasn't clear to me just where you intend to head west after driving north from Kalgoorlie as the map you link to didn't give much of an indication and that in French! It looks as if you intend driving north to Wiluna before heading west. If so the road Wiluna to Meekatharra is gravel and not a very good road. You can go further north from Wiluna to link with the highway using the Neds Creek Road but that too is dirt and not always in good condition.

[Hallu]

I'll be going in late May/early June, so walking won't be a problem. Between the B and C points, so North of Kalgoorlie, I have pretty much no idea what to see or where to go. I see that there are a couple of national parks on the way, such as Bourabbin, or Goongarrie, do you know anything about those ? Some good camping spot/hiking spot combinations would be great. Another tricky thing though is that we're not experienced off-track walkers, so long bushwalks outside formed tracks would be out of the question unfortunately (unless it's just following a dry creek)

The Wiluna to Meekatharra was suggested by Google maps (which seems to think it's a sealed road), it wasn't intentional on my part. The big interrogation, road wise, would be between Collier Range, Mount Augustus and Kennedy Range. We're not afraid of gravel or corrugation, I have some experience in driving on those, I'm more worried about potholes, rocky dry creek crossings, and not being able to go above an average of 40 km/h because of bad road conditions.

Thanks for your help, it's great to get advice from a local.

[Le Flaneur]

At that time of the year the weather should be delightful, crisp clear nights and beautiful warm days. Driving on the gravel really depends on your level of experience. Some people will report sections as terrible while others with more experience of dirt driving will indicate that the roads are good. I'd recommend spending a couple of days in and around Kalgoorlie as there is plenty to see. Out of Menzies there is Lake Ballard which is nice to camp at and comes with some sculptures to see. The other side of the highway is Kookynie, again with a nice dam to camp on. Gwalia out of Leonora is certainly worth a couple of hours to look at and you can stay at Hoover House (Yes where the American President lived while mining there). Out of Leonora I'd recommend the Terraces for an isolated camp spot if you are prepared to venture a little out of the way. There are spots around Leinster to camp and a caravan park to stay in if you want. Wiluna is interesting and there is a pool (North Pool) just north of town where you can camp. The main roads through Karijini are all pretty good, though corrugated.

I'm not sure just how relevant this discussion is to others so you might want to email me separately and I can give you more details including some GPS waypoints, photos etc.

[jacko1956]

Re books....
http://www.bookdepository.co.uk/Bushwal ... 0730755463
Also available in a lot of libraries and presumably DEC offices.

[jacko1956]

Sorry, I see you're changing your plans a bit.
I would personally concentrate on Karajini and Millstream/Chichester for "bush" activities.
Kalbarri and Exmouth, Coral Bay etc better done with an aquatic itinery as well as bush.
All of the above will be places you remember for the rest of your life.

[Hallu]

Thanks for the tips Flaneur, but the thing is I'm not a flâneur at all, I never relax on holidays, I need long day walks every day, and I only stop for wildlife spotting or camping at night. I'm really not the "let's stop a full day to camp, light the barbie and enjoy the scenery" type of guy. I love the vastness and quiet of the outback, but I still need some tracks to walk on, that's why I was asking about all the obscure national parks and nature reserves around Kalgoorlie. Any of them familiar to you, with some formed tracks and interesting day walks ? Otherwise I think I'll focus on the original plan, with long stops at Karajini and Millstream/Chichester for walks, probably only adding a detour to the Kennedy Range.

Thanks for the book Jacko, found it on ebay.

[Le Flaneur]

The Terraces.jpg (67.49 KiB) Viewed 18763 times

No problems Hallu. There is plenty of walking to do in each of the locations mentioned. Take Lake Ballard for instance. From memory if you wanted to see each of the Anthony Gormley statues you would have to cover over 22km. It really depends on how much time you have and what your preferences are. Certainly the country is more dramatic around Karajini and along the coast. I've attached a picture from the Terraces out of Lenora where you could walk along some breakaway country like this for about 30km.

You should enjoy it whichever option you take.

[Aushiker]

I have been to Burringurrah (Mt Augustus) but by bicycle. Absolutely love the area, but I would think driving through there you are not going to see much. Burringurrah (Mt Augustus) can be easily climbed in a morning and whilst there are one or two other tracks the summit is about it.



Other than maybe a route south from Karajini you might not find it a great use of your time.

Andrew

[Hallu]

Just got the book Jacko, and although lacking photos, it's giving me exactly what I needed : long day walks. It's out of print everywhere though, I had to order it as a used item.

[jacko1956]

Glad you liked it.
Years ago we went to Karajini with the one from our library...

[Hallu]

OK now we have our itinerary complete :

1st day : Drive & Nambung
2nd : Kalbarri
3rd : drive to Shark Bay
4th : 4WD tour in François Péron
5th : a couple of cruises in Shark Bay
6th : drive to Kennedy Ranges
7th : Explore Kennedy Ranges
8th : Drive to Exmouth
9th and 10th : explore Cape Range/Ningaloo
11th : Drive to Karijini
12th and 13th : explore Karijini
14th : Millstream-Chichester
15th/16th : maybe 2nd day around the Chichester ranges, and explore Dampier and the archipelagos

Now I only have some questions regarding some cruises : do you know a good cruise at Ningaloo to observe marine wildlife and the landscape (no snorkeling, fishing or diving, that's the tricky part) ? And I have the same question for the Dampier archipelago (or other archipelagos in the area). Thanks for your help.

We also thought about the Burrup Peninsula, but it seems to be more 4WD country, and with no walking track.

[Clusterpod]

We were in Kalbarri over Xmas/NY.

The "Loop" walk was wonderful, though it was over 40 degrees that day (I shudder to think how hot it was on the gorge floor, much higher). Theres a multi-day gorge-crawl from Loop to Z-bend and beyond for the more adventurous.

The "Coastal Trail" is a one-way 8km stroll that is well-worth doing. The beach on the other side of the Murchison is almost as long as you want it.

I spent days exploring the firebreaks and bushtracks out from town. Its a great place.

But I see you are only there one day.

[Hallu]

Yeah we had to make some choices, one of them was to spend more time around the Karijini/Millstream-Chichester region at the expense of Kalbarri.

[Hallu]

By the way I'm looking at the possibility of an overnight trip on one of the island of the Dampier Archipelago. Any walking pads/tracks on the islands you can camp on ? I was thinking paying someone to take us there by boat, and take us back the next day. Any idea on the best island for this ?