Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking tips?

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Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking tips?

Postby Juudbruinsma » Thu 16 Apr, 2015 9:02 pm

Got a road trip planned in June / July (4 weeks) going from Darwin to Exmouth and planning to explore some of the national parks on the way: Kakadu, Nitmiluk, Purnululu and Karijini (am I forgetting any?). I know the distances will be huge, and we probably won't be able to do all I want to do, so I'm looking for a bit of help from you:

Any tips about what we should see and do along the way would be more than welcome. I would love to get tips on ideas for walks (maybe a couple of overnight hikes if possible?) We're pretty new to overnight hiking, but do day hikes very regularly.

The one thing I'm very keen to do is the overnight kayak trip at Katherine Gorge, has anyone done that? What was your experience?

End point is Exmouth, where we will hopefully be able to swim with whale sharks and do some diving.

Sooo exited! :D
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Hallu » Thu 16 Apr, 2015 10:03 pm

4 weeks is plenty enough to explore those parks. What I was disappointed about though in that region is the towns. Darwin is cute, but the rest is awful. Exmouth has nothing for it, there's a big ex-American military base on the top of the peninsula, and Cape Range NP with its canyons has awful roads and layout. Karatha/Dampier is a dump, there's no other word for it, only Point Samson is kinda cute. I haven't seen Broome, but I haven't heard any good thing about it. So my advice is, camp in NPs and other wild places as much as you can. So you're flying from Sydney to Darwin, and then Exmouth back to Sydney ? How does it work ? Renting a camper one way would be insanely expensive, wouldn't it ? For Purnululu you need a sturdy 4x4 and an offroad trailer.

Anywyay, regarding parks, you're forgetting Litchfield and Gregory, don't miss them. Litchfield is lush with great waterfalls, rockpools and termite mounds. Gregory is drier but wild. For best info you should buy a couple of books : the first ones would be the Hema Kimberley Atlas & Guide ( http://www.mapworld.com.au/products/kim ... tlas-guide ), and the Hema Pilbarra Atlas & Guide ( http://www.offroadequipment.com.au/prod ... las-guide/ ). They're A4 size guidebooks with great maps, great info and quality pictures. A must. For "secret" and out of the beaten path stuff, there's http://www.kimberleyaustralia.com , where you can buy guides here : http://www.kimberleyaustralia.com/desti ... p-end.html . They're quite expensive, and they're done in MS Word so it doesn't look pro, but the woman who writes them knows all there is to know on the Top End and the Kimberley, and it's full of honest and useful advice, plenty of non-NP destinations that most tourists miss, such as Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park. As for walks themselves, there's only one good book for the Top End, Take a Walk in Northern Territory ( http://www.takeawalk.com.au/Z8Main.htm ). There's nothing for the Kimberley, and for the Pilbarra I've only found an old book which was pretty useless to me. If you've got time, don't miss Millstream-Chichester, I know it's not very wild because mining pipelines and other stuff got here and ruined some views, but it still feels pretty special. Karijini also has been ruined by the mining nearby, with awful roads and expensive accommodation. But the gorges and rockpools are still lovely. Are you gonna do the Gibbs btw ? If I had any advice it would be to do Darwin to Karratha instead so you can explore the Kimberley in full. This would require some 4WD experience though, but then again so does most of your trip. If you still go to Exmouth, remember that July is the last month the sharks are here.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Juudbruinsma » Thu 16 Apr, 2015 10:37 pm

Thanks for the great tips re books. Will look into those.

Yeah, I pretty much gathered that the towns are not going to be the highlight of the trip - however, I was hoping Broome might be nice? However, we are determined to spend as much time camping at (hopefully) some good spots (in the wild)

Re itinerary, yes, we're flying from Sydney to Darwin, got a rental car (good robust car with hight clearance, but no 4wd as that was ridiculously expensive) one way which we'll drop off at Exmouth (flights have been booked). Because we don't have a 4WD the Gibbs Road is unfortunately out, I would have loved to do that, but budget, budget... I have read that Purnululu is pretty much only accesible via 4WD, but was hopeful someone would tell me otherwise (wishful thinking), so that one might be out as well, or we'll have to do a tour (not a big fan of those though...)

Re Litchfield, I read about the termite mounds, would like to see those. I was wondering whether, if we go to Kakadu first, Litchfield might not be as interesting anymore in comparison (but I might be completely wrong here, that's the idea I got from reading up about it).

I must check out Gregory NP, but from memory I though that park was only accessible via 4WD? Maybe that's why I left it out.

I am very dissapointed to hear that Karijini has been ruined by mining, I didn't know that, and this is the park I was actually looking forward to exploring most...

Re whale sharks, we'll be arriving at Exmouth early in July... Fingers crossed they'll hang around long enough...
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Hallu » Thu 16 Apr, 2015 11:07 pm

Never been there but I've always read that Purnululu is 4WD or nothing. I wouldn't dare to try it with a 2WD rental car. It's the same for Kakadu, you can't reach Twin Falls/Jim Jim Falls with 2WD. I mean yeah most of the time it's the clearance you need not the 4WD but what kind of clearance do you get on 2WD rental cars ? What car did you get ? I strongly urge you to get 4WD, given the itinerary you're doing I though you had, you'll be very limited otherwise, but I doubt they offer one way deals for 4WD, so you may have to end up booking tours. Plus Purnululu is like 2-3h to get there, so you don't wanna try it with 2 WD and then having to turn back, it'd be a complete waste of a day.

Re Karijini it's the surroundings that have been ruined. Mining trucks, gaping holes, ugly towns. The park in itself is nice, but the roads are terrible (worst corrugations in all of Australia for a 2WD park imo) and the info provided online is rubbish.

If it's 2WD only for you because of budget reasons, read as much as you can about 2WD accessible areas. When they say it's 4WD or nothing, you better believe them.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Eremophila » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 12:44 am

Limited experience here, but would recommend Litchfield over Kakadu.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby longlux » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 1:54 am

Broome has some great stuff to look at, but it is expensive & they have no free or low cost accomadation. If you can get in have a look around & leave, you will save a lot of money, we did'nt, three nights in a resort, camel ride, eating out & Douglas's Disaster in town soon emptied our pockets.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Lizzy » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 7:02 am

Here's my report on paddling Katherine/Nitmiluk
viewtopic.php?f=49&t=17485
I did it with packraft but you can hire kayaks
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby north-north-west » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 7:27 am

re the overnight kayak at Nitmiluk:
Yes, and I can recommend it except for the insane bureaucracy there. You won't get away early on the first day. Whether you're hiring kayaks or taking your own (or walking), you are supposed to check in and get a permit at the visitor's centre. This is so that they know you're out there so that if you go missing they know where to look for you. Supposedly. The whole rationale is illogical and inconsistent. So is the procedure. You have to get the permit on the first day of your trip - you can't pre-book/buy because the computer system doesn't work like that. And if you aren't back at the nominated day/time, they'll start a search. Plus the desk is never manned at the time they say it will be - they were always at least a half hour late when I was there. However, if you don't mind going through all their *&^%$#!, the trip is fantastic.
You pay a small fee for each night you're out, you're supposed to nominate which campsite/s you'll be using, and you've given a massive metal disc with a number, which is attached to the boat. You can paddle as far as the top of the ninth gorge, but any progress past there is on foot, unless you have a packraft. And even getting that far requires a fair bit of hard work getting the kayak through the portages. Some are shorter and easier, some longer and harder. Depends on the water level, too.

There are official campsites for paddlers, although I didn't use them. Heaps of spots you can stop and once you're past the second gorge it tends to be pretty quiet. At the top of the ninth I scrambled up the cliffs and followed the scarp back to a big bend inside the 12th gorge. Still got back within three days. A beautiful place but too much bureaucratic bull for me if you want to go out overnight (walking or paddling). I wouldn't go back if you paid me.

re Purnululu, yes, it is officially 4WD access only, even though the road in really isn't all that bad. There are even signs up saying that the rangers will order you out if you drive in with a normal car.
It's a bit silly, the road is mostly fine. There are a couple of creek crossings on the way, but they're not very deep. I've done far deeper and longer crossings, and far worse roads in a 2wd Hilux, so I don't understand the fuss. Maybe the rangers are just sick of having to assist stranded motorists who panic at the first sign of water.

Karijini is beautiful. Worth the effort. Road is nowhere near as bad as Hallu suggests (or maybe I've just been on enough worse roads). Just drive slowly. Millstream-Chichester is another fantastic area - don't miss it. There are some wonderful walks there and much of the escarpment country can be explored on foot off track.

Gregory (Judbarra) has 2wd access. There are parts that are 4wd only, but plenty of short walks start from the highway, and plenty of places are easily accessible from it with 2wd drive. The best of the limestone country, however, is down a rough road/track that you probably shouldn't try taking a hired 2wd down. In good conditions it is 2wdable, but only if you're used to it and have a bit more clearance than normal.

There's also Keep River, which has some good campgrounds and short walks.

Tunnel Creek, Geikie Gorge, all that country is well worth visiting.

Broome is lovely but expensive. There are places you can do a cheeky overnighter near the town, but it's technically illegal. Good camping up on the Dampier, however, including near James Price Point, and although many of the access tracks are 4wd there are still places you can get to with a 2wd.

I was in Exmouth early August and the Whale Sharks were still there. It's variable. But there is some good diving in that area even if the big beasties have moved on.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Hallu » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 6:22 pm

I went to Karijini after heavy rains in May 2012. They're rare, we got unlucky. To give you an idea, you couldn't do the famous "spider walk" unless you wanted to swim to it. So the road was heavily corrugated, with deep mud, big rocks, and we blew a tire. I've seen worse roads (the road to the start of the Mother Cummings walk in Tassie comes to mind) but in such a popular park, it's really strange to have such an awful road. Crowds have been down 25 % between 2007 and 2009 in Karijini, that's a huge drop, and I guarantee you it's because the park is badly maintained. Roads should be sealed, and the most important thing, info should be more easily accessible. On the brochure, they only talk about short walks (REALLY short walks) with overestimated walking times. It's only once there that there are faded signs showing you circuits connecting those walks are possible. Why won't they put those signs online ? I have no idea, but it's a badly managed park.

I actually prefered Kalbarri or Kennedy Range, there's just no comparison. The problem with Pilbarra's parks or parks in the Northern half of WA is that if you don't want to go off track, there's not much to do. So for daywalks as Juud is asking, it's complicated. You have walks that last 2-3 hours tops, but for example you can do all the small walks in Cape Range, canyons + the gorges nearer to the beach in a single day. Same thing for Kalbarri, Kennedy Range. François Péron has almost no signed walks and is 4WD only. I was really frustrated with that, unless you're on a tour with a good guide and 4WD, you're not gonna see the best places, and it's really expensive. I did WA with a friend on 2WD, but if I had to do it again, I'd probably do it in a 4WD tour like I did the Top End. Having somebody with the local knowledge is priceless in those areas.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Juudbruinsma » Sat 18 Apr, 2015 8:44 am

Hallu wrote:Never been there but I've always read that Purnululu is 4WD or nothing.


Ok, Purnululu is out... Unless we can do a tour (budget permitting)

Lizzy wrote:Here's my report on paddling Katherine/Nitmiluk
viewtopic.php?f=49&t=17485
I did it with packraft but you can hire kayaks


That looks awesome, thanks for sharing. still keen to give that one a go despite the bureaucracy noth-north-west describes (bizar that you cannot pick up a permit before your trip...)

Thanks also for bringing Millstream-Chichester to my attention, looked it up online and it's definitely on the itinerary now.

Shame about there not being longer walks in Karijini, what about the other parks?
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby north-north-west » Sat 18 Apr, 2015 9:21 am

Western Australia doesn't really do long walking tracks. They're basically set up for tourists who want a small taste of the country but aren't really walkers. There's plenty of good walking but for anything more than a few hours you mostly have to go off-track. Punnurunha in Karijini is one of the longer tracks. The cliff top track at Kalbarri could take up most of a day if you include all the side trips (but that's south of Exmouth so forget I mentioned it). There's a loop track on the Cape Range that can take a few hours, goes out to the Keyhole.
It's a pity about the Purnululu access, because that's one of the few places that does have a walk that can take a full day, or even longer.

The Ord River Dam area is beautiful, and the off-track walking there is very easy. It's all really open, mostly bare rocky hills. If you have the time it's worth wandering around.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby myrtlegirl » Sat 18 Apr, 2015 5:07 pm

If you're heading south from Darwin to Katherine and Nitmiluk and want an over night walk, I would highly recommend the Jatbula trail. It is more than overnight (5ish nights?), the camps are by waterfalls, the trail is easy to follow (even in pre-dawn light, as there's reflective track markers) with not much in the way of climbs, and best done with very, very early morning starts (on track by 6am) to avoid the heat and get to camp in time to sit in a waterfall all afternoon. You can also do an overnighter, or longer, walking out to Eighth Gorge (I think that's where we went).

Re 4WD to Purnululu - definitely 4WD (not even AWD), with a road that can be so corrugated as to rattle door locks and window winding mechanisms to bits, separate the milk to curds and whey, and rattle the tops off several jars (the anchovies, the tomato sauce and the coffee together, memorable). Same story for Tunnel Creek and the Gibb River Road in general. There was assorted vehicle damage which became obvious, and expensive, over the succeeding months.

BUT - they were awesome places to visit! I would recommend taking a hire 4WD rather than your own vehicle, following on from our post-trip cost-benefit analysis.

The overnight walk in Purnululu up Picaninny Creek is amazing, very special, and a wonderful way to get away from the crowds. Again, very very early starts to avoid heat.

Keep River has a section which is a mini-Purnululu, and many tracks where you can find some cool Aboriginal art. If you see some sticks lying on a track, head off-track to find the art.

Mataranka has a daywalk along the river.

As a southern-stater, you may find that mountains and dense forest are very light on esp in WA, but the landscape has it's own beauty.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby north-north-west » Sat 18 Apr, 2015 6:02 pm

You don't need to do the whole of the Jatbula - be difficult to get organised for that anyway. From Leliyn you can walk up to Sweetwater Pool, which is the northernmost camp on the Jatbula. Southbound traffic is banned beyond there, to avoid spreading phytophthera, but Sweetwater itself is wonderful, and you can always make the trip up late afternoon and camp there overnight.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby earthgrace » Sun 19 Apr, 2015 10:02 pm

I didn't find that Litchfield was a disappointment after Kakadu. It was very different in scale and scenery. Heard good things about Gregory NP and Keep River.

Roads in Karijini aren't great, but took a 2WD and made it in one piece. Really lovely gorges.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Hallu » Mon 20 Apr, 2015 4:40 am

Litchfield is often a big favorite amongst people visiting the Top End, amongst my mates, it actually surpasses Kakadu or Katherine Gorge. It's a little pocket of paradise. Kakadu feels more touristy, and a bit of a mess to be honest, less accessible than Litchfield, and complex.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby peregrinator » Wed 22 Apr, 2015 3:29 pm

north-north-west wrote:It's a pity about the Purnululu access, because that's one of the few places that does have a walk that can take a full day, or even longer.


I have not been to any of the places discussed in this topic. Just wanted to point out that there is an article in the current Wild magazine (146) about a ten-day walk in the Osmond Ranges in Purnululu NP. It is an appalling piece of writing, all adjectives and hackneyed phrases. There is no map and mot much detail about the trip. It does have five photographs which show the beauty of the area. I would not recommend buying the magazine but check it out in your library if you're planning visiting Purnululu as there could be a couple of useful bits of information.

As an aside and to be fair, I should also say that this issue has a well-written article on an 8-day trip following the Murray River from the Black-Allan Line to Tom Groggin. And a few items of interest to packrafters (I'm not one).
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Hallu » Wed 22 Apr, 2015 5:22 pm

10 days in the Bungles,that's a lot of off track, you need an experienced guide. Was it done by Willis's Walkabouts ? He's pretty much the most famous guy for taking you on long treks to those places.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby peregrinator » Wed 22 Apr, 2015 6:53 pm

Hallu wrote:10 days in the Bungles,that's a lot of off track, you need an experienced guide. Was it done by Willis's Walkabouts ? He's pretty much the most famous guy for taking you on long treks to those places.


Entirely off-track. No guide. A self-supported party of three. Presumably lots of planning. Which makes it even sadder that it is such an atrociously written report.

As I said, I don't know the area at all, but they were in the Osmond Range and not in the Bungle Bungle Range.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby walk2wineries » Thu 30 Apr, 2015 10:39 am

I loved Litchfield. Agree I would take that over Kakadu, special as that is.
If you are going to Katherine - I would take Bitter springs - was it free or cheap? -over Mataranka which is lovely but more expensive and often full of fat Europeans stewing. Sorry, I'm no sylph myself but it can be busy. Look for the Katherine Hot Springs - the walk is only I think a couple of km (sorry, 10 years ago!) but very pretty, free, 24/7, facilities - and they are warmish not hot, great place to relax at the end of the day when its too warm to do much else.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby walk2wineries » Thu 30 Apr, 2015 10:44 am

As for walks themselves, there's only one good book for the Top End, Take a Walk in Northern Territory ( http://www.takeawalk.com.au/Z8Main.htm ).


Thanks for that, driving to Darwin from Adelaide in June & didn't know of that book.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Travis22 » Thu 30 Apr, 2015 2:26 pm

Karajini NP and Mt Augustus NP were for my wife and i the absolute highlight of WA when we visited the Kimberley.

There are lots of other fantastic places while your over there like the Bungle Bungles, Lake Argyle, Gibb river rd and the other places already mentioned.

Karajini is a magical place, sure the official camping sucks but the gorges well and truly make up for it as does the exploring that can be done if you have a capable 4wd and the experience to go into very remote parts of the ranges. As for the standard access to Karajini, as NNW said its an easy drive and i certainly hope they dont ever seal the road into places like this.

Mt Augustus and the hiking around there was another magical experience, i absolutely loved the place and it will always be somewhere i hope to revisit in years to come.

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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Juudbruinsma » Sun 05 Jul, 2015 10:10 pm

Just got back from an epic trip! Thanks all for the fantastic tips and comments, they were very helpful. We especially thank you for the tips re getting a 4wd, which we did - we could do so much more this way and were not dependant on expensive tours.

Unfortunately we only did shortish day walks as time was limited (those four weeks just flew by). Katherine Gotge was stil slosed for canoes as the water levels were too high still (croc risk), but we managed to pack in Kakadu, Lichfield, Katherine, Gregory, Purnululu and Karajini NPs and the Ningaloo reef. Couple of photos (just the iphone photos, not the best quality) below.
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Juudbruinsma » Sun 05 Jul, 2015 10:12 pm

Photos
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Long long roads
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Karijini
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Road sign - Straya Animals
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Juudbruinsma » Sun 05 Jul, 2015 10:14 pm

Photos 2
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Ningaloo sunset
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Purnululu
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Friosty mornings at Karajini
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Juudbruinsma » Sun 05 Jul, 2015 10:15 pm

Photos 3
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Katherine
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Thorny devil
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Re: Goin' on a road trip - Darwin to Exmouth - any hiking ti

Postby Juudbruinsma » Sun 05 Jul, 2015 10:18 pm

And one more
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It's a croc-eat-croc world at Kakadu
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