Irenabyss and Frenchmans Cap December 2007

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Irenabyss and Frenchmans Cap December 2007

Postby Son of a Beach » Mon 17 Dec, 2007 10:26 am

Last week 'wotrack?' and I went up Frenchmans Cap and across the Irenabyss where we had 6 great days on the track (and off it). The Loddens were nowhere near as sodden as last time I went through, despite raining most of that day, and a lot of rain the week before. Also two or three of the worst bog-holes are now duck boarded, which was a pleasant surprise.

It continued to rain on and off on the second day, including a few hailstorms while walking up the long hill to Barren Pass. But we were so astounded by the beauty of the forest and the views that the rain and hail didn't bother us at all. The walk between Lakes Vera and Tahune has got to be one of the most beautiful walking days of anywhere. I didn't notice the Huon Pines last time I was there... perhaps I just didn't know what I was looking at last time... it was a long time ago.

We decided not to climb Frenchmans Cap that afternoon, as we were expecting better weather the next morning. We were disappointed. The rain continued on the third day, but cleared to just thick clouds by the afternoon. We spent most of the day at Tahune hut reading books, and eventually climbed to the summit of Frenchmans Cap later in the afternoon. We enjoyed the climb but were a little disappointed by only a brief glimpse of a view between the clouds from the Summit. However the views on the way up were still good.

So on the fourth day, we headed out towards the Irenabyss. Finally the weather had come good... one day later than forecast, but better late than never. Since we had to go right past the mountain again, on the way through, wotrack? climbed the summit again, and this time got the full summit views from the top. I had seen the views before, and having just been up the previous day, and being a lazy sod, I waited for him at the summit turn off, and continued reading my book. :-)

We then made the 1000 metre descent in altitude to the Irenabyss, which is a truly magnificent spot. Incredibly beautiful. Pity I had a splitting headache that afternoon. Never mind. We had a good rest and look around and thoroughly enjoyed just being in such a magnificent part of creation.

We packed everything into large plastic bags, and then into our packs, and then placed our packs themselves into large plastic bags. Tied up, then realised that my pack-hauling rope was a lot shorter than when we took it on the Arthurs. Oops! I'd been pilfering bits of it for my sailboard and other uses over the intervening years. o-oh!

Well we tied a bit of wood to one end, and tried some test throws. Yes, it was just long enough to reach the opposite bank. But we could have to fight the current and swim directly across to the steep bank, and not diagonally across with the current to the easy sandy landing spot.

All this figuring out while standing around near-naked, on the bank of the river. Thank goodness we had good weather for all this stuffing around! We could have frozen our... well... you know.

So wotrack? swam across first, and scrambled up onto the bank. Had to swim fast to get directly across to where the rope would reach without being swept downstream, but he did well. I tossed the across the bit of wood tied to the rope, and just missed his feet, but he was able to grab it. Lowered his pack in, and he pulled it across without problems. Untied the rope, threw it back, I pulled it across, tied it to my pack, threw the other end with the wood back again, took a couple of attempts to get it right this time, then lowerd my pack in and he pulled it across.

Then it was my turn to swim. Well, it was cold. But we were so grateful that it was nowhere near as cold as it could have been. Just a little colder than the 1st Basin in Launceston about a metre below the surface. :-)

We untied the rope, and took off the outer plastic bags, donned out packs and scrambled through the forest to the smaller campsite on the Northern bank of the river. No terribly flat places to pitch a tent, but we found a spot that proved more comfortable to sleep on that it looked.

I won't give much in the way of detail for the last 2 days of the walk, as it involves a lot of off-track walking, in some sensitive areas (and hence would be against forum rules, although it's debatable as the route is well described on both Tasmap maps and in well known books). However, the weather was very good for the last two days. We managed to walk a 9 hour day on the second last day in order to make sure we got out OK on the last day. We knew both days would be tough, with a lot of scrub-bashing.

We avoided Mary Creek Plains (which the route passes through according to the 1:25,000 maps), and instead followed the route marked on the 1:100000 map which passes to the east of the plains. There were a few patches of scrub which were incredibly difficult to get through, but we eventually got most of the way along the ridge before Flat Bluff, and decided we'd better find somewhere to camp. Thankfully there were a few small patches of grass just a bit further on. One was just big enough and flat enough for the tent.

We saw no creeks, lakes, pools or other such water sources for the entire two days north of the Franklin. We sucked water out of yabbie holes using my yabbie straw. We found a group of yabbie holes near the camp site which had enough water to get a mug into, so we were able to collect enough to cook and clean with.

The final walk bit of the walk involved more scrub bashing from the Franklin Dam bulldozer exploration tracks to the Lyell Highway. We couldn't see a thing through the scrub the entire way down the hill, and were getting concerned that we could be heading slightly in the wrong direction by the time we got to the bottom. We eventually came to a fairly open spot and could see that we were very near the bottom, but we couldn't see the road, or even a gap in the trees where the road should have been. o-oh!

We decided to wait to listen for cars, since we'd heard some on the way down. Eventually one came past, and it was clear from the sound that it was only a few metres in front of us that it went past. So we continued on, and by some complete fluke (or perhaps by genius of instinctive navigation) we came out onto the road EXACTLY at the 'Victoria Pass' sign.

Yay!

A quick wash in the Collingwood River on the way to meat pies and pints at the Derwent River pub and then home.

Phew!

A really tough couple of days resulting in scratches all over my arms and knees, and my T-shirt being ripped to shreds in the scrub, but well worth it.

A short selection of the photos wotrack? took are below.

Rugged Ridge Line above Lake Vera
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Me Admiring a Creek and Huon Pines
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King Billy Stagg
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Artichoke Valley
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wotrack? at the Summit Turnoff Sign
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Cushion Plants Pool near the Summit of Frenchmans Cap
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Rock
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wotrack? looking Back to Frechmans Cap from the Irenabyss Track
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Me Relaxing at the Irenabyss
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The Irenabyss
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The Irenabyss
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The Rocks from which we swam directly across (to the right of the picture)
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Me any my smelly socks at our rough makeshift 'campsite' on the ridge to the North East of Mary Creek Plains
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Frenchmans Cap Sunset
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Son of a Beach
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Re: Irenabyss and Frenchmans Cap December 2007

Postby tasadam » Mon 17 Dec, 2007 11:04 am

Gee, they look familiar! :wink:
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby The Caveman » Mon 17 Dec, 2007 9:27 pm

Now, that is some sensational tramping.

Just wish I could string together so many days for a solid route, but will have to be content with day trips and the odd 2-3 day blast whilst fishing.

Love the pics, did you see any lost trout in that creek? Now that would be a place to flick a 2wt over...
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Re: Irenabyss and Frenchmans Cap December 2007

Postby delphin » Tue 18 Dec, 2007 8:21 am

... wow...
Kind regards,
Michael Dickson
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Re: Irenabyss and Frenchmans Cap December 2007

Postby Saab » Tue 18 Dec, 2007 9:05 am

some really cracking pics there

Top job ...... :D :D
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby Penguin » Wed 19 Dec, 2007 9:52 am

The walk sounded great and the photos are excellent. I think Artichoke Valley is on of those little treasures that make walking worthwhile.

We have a week to potter around Frenchman's in late Feb next year. I would not mind having a chat about your trek from the Franklin off forum if possible.
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby Son of a Beach » Wed 19 Dec, 2007 10:05 am

No problem, feel free to PM or email me, or drop in for a visit if you're passing through Launceston any time. Tasadam gave me a lot of good advice about the walk before I went too.
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby SurferShane » Wed 19 Dec, 2007 11:02 am

Apparently you friendly Tassie blokes who I met at Lake Tahune Hut below Frenchman’s cap 12 December 2007, who are none other than the creator and moderator of this site. I had a perfect trip along the standard route, but am really pleased to be able to read about how your extended journey across the Franklin went.

I am also sure that I might need to thank you for calling out to warn me that I had deviated from the track when climbing the peak. I kind of got carried away while rock scrambling and started to make my own path to the top. For a while I found it quite difficult to understand how you told me that you had just gone for a “run” up to the top. I struck me that I was going the wrong way when I almost needed to climb up over near virgin vegetation. My advice to others is to wear your glasses and take it easy on your first ascent :roll: .

Anyway, thanks for the good company and hope to hear more about your trip. When I get time, I will try to post some of my better photos and some personal track notes.
Shane, NEWCASTLE NSW AUST
Last edited by SurferShane on Wed 13 Feb, 2008 5:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby Son of a Beach » Wed 19 Dec, 2007 1:04 pm

Hi Shane... it's good to hear that the rest of your trip went well. Nice that the weather finally improved, eh? Just in time to get those good summit views. It would be good to see your photos some time, if you want to post them in the Gallery forum. ;)
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Re: Irenabyss and Frenchmans Cap December 2007

Postby corvus » Thu 20 Dec, 2007 7:37 pm

nik fantastic pics and I am most envious as I suspect that I have missed the boat to do this walk .
not wishing to be pedantic I did however note that both of you were wearing I believe a fair amount of cottony type clothing which as a bush walking site we should be advising against dont you think? just an observation :wink:
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Re: Irenabyss and Frenchmans Cap December 2007

Postby Son of a Beach » Thu 20 Dec, 2007 8:40 pm

corvus wrote:nik fantastic pics and I am most envious as I suspect that I have missed the boat to do this walk .
not wishing to be pedantic I did however note that both of you were wearing I believe a fair amount of cottony type clothing which as a bush walking site we should be advising against dont you think? just an observation :wink:


Too right. Cotton is the worst and even the most dangerous fabric to wear bushwalking if there is any chance of the weather being cold and/or wet. Even if the weather is not particularly cold/wet, cotton can absorb your sweat and make you very cold very quickly. Walkers certainly need to be aware of this, and either don't walk in cotton, or otherwise, be very cautious about it and be ready to get into warmer clothes in bad conditions well before it gets too cold to do so.

There you go... is that better? :D

For more discussion on this topic, please refer to: the cotton/wool vs nylon/synthetic topic.

During the second day we both wore half thermals (mine on the legs, and wotrack? on the top half). Most of our photos were taken during good weather and I do walk in a cotton T-shirt if the weather is good, but it is absolutely the worst thing to walk in if there's much chance of foul/cold/wet weather. However, for hot weather, it's so comfortable. I always make sure that I've got something more suitable handy in case the weather does go bad. Tasmania's weather is so fickle.

At the end of the first day, walking across the plateau just before lake Vera we were both getting quite cold in our cotton T-shirts and gortex jackets (rain and wind had both started up in our faces), and were discussing that we might have to stop and put on warmer clothes soon, but we thought we must be getting close to the hut and so pushed on. If we weren't 100% sure that we were very close to the hut, we were prepared to stop and change in the rain and wind to be on the safe side, which I've done on rare occasions before. It's not fun, of course. And the trick is that you have to do it before you get too cold, otherwise you're going to absolutely freeze while you're changing and fiddling with your pack.

One day I'll buy something more suitable than a cotton T-shirt for hot weather walking, but for now I've always got cheap T-shirts in the drawer, and I can't justify the cost of buying expensive T-shirts for hot weather walking.

BTW, you may have noticed that I was also wearing a flannelette shirt in one of those photos. I generally just wear that around the camp site during warm evenings/mornings (in the case of that photo it was to stop getting even more sunburnt on the arms) and I also wear it to bed like pyjamas - I can't stand the feel of synthetics (including the sleeping bag) against my skin in bed, and wool is way to hot for me at night in my J&H 'Winterlight'. I do not wear the flannelette shirt walking. :) OK? ;)
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Re: Irenabyss and Frenchmans Cap December 2007

Postby corvus » Fri 21 Dec, 2007 3:48 pm

good reply nik and it will direct members to the cotton/synthetic forum :)
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby tasadam » Sat 22 Dec, 2007 6:57 am

Hi Nik.
It was great to read about your walk and see some fantastic photos. I am pleased for you both that it was a successful walk and am somewhat envious.
Your account of it brings back a lot of memories to me. The first time I did this walk, I swam with my pack, sort of like a dog paddle with one arm and a scissor kick with my feet, while using the other arm to pull the pack across. And that was with my boots on :shock: (give me a break, that was my 1st overnite walk in Tassie). On that trip we bush bashed down from Raglan Range to the highway but on the 2nd trip, after taking our time and being out there for 7 days, we took the track all the way down the bulldozer track (my wife's first overnighter).
From your account, I think I will take the bulldozer track again if I find myself there. Somewhat further, but the scrub on that hill sure looks thick.
The 2nd trip we had plenty of rope and I used it to pull both packs across at the one time. Shame on you for pilfering your bushwalking gear (rope) for other activities. A lesson in that for all of us, to check all gear particularly thoroughly before a major walk.
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby frank_in_oz » Thu 27 Dec, 2007 7:12 am

Great report, many thanks for posting it. Loved the photos in the gallery. Will tick it off as a "must do"
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby SurferShane » Wed 13 Feb, 2008 5:11 pm

Nick, sorry I haven’t had time to post track notes yet, but here is a link to some of the photos from my trip.

Unfortunately, access means that you might have to join Yahoo and my group SurferShanesAustralia. I apologise for the inconvenience. It is partially due to the fact that I could not find another way to get my photos onto the web. I am also in the process of adding useful links to the site for anyone else who wants to do the same walk or any other activity I add to the group.

http://au.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Sur ... ststralia/
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Re: Irenabyss and Frenchmans Cap December 2007

Postby ben.h » Wed 13 Feb, 2008 6:32 pm

Cool photos Nik :)
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby Son of a Beach » Wed 13 Feb, 2008 8:19 pm

SurferShane wrote:Nick, sorry I haven’t had time to post track notes yet, but here is a link to some of the photos from my trip.

Unfortunately, access means that you might have to join Yahoo and my group SurferShanesAustralia. I apologise for the inconvenience. It is partially due to the fact that I could not find another way to get my photos onto the web. I am also in the process of adding useful links to the site for anyone else who wants to do the same walk or any other activity I add to the group.

http://au.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Sur ... ststralia/


I temporarily joined your group... (I generally don't do Yahoo, Facebook or Myspace).

Nice photos, mate! It's amazing how different a couple of your shots were compared to ours, when taking much the same scene only 1 day later.
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby frank_in_oz » Wed 13 Feb, 2008 8:55 pm

SurferShane wrote: It is partially due to the fact that I could not find another way to get my photos onto the web.

(sorry off topic) One way to get free hosting to share pics is to get a blogger blog and just load them there..Free, with a limit but takes a while to reach

or http://www.flickr.com/ . btw there are several great Tasmanian Groups there.
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Re: Just got back from Frenchmans Cap and the Irenabyss

Postby Son of a Beach » Wed 20 Feb, 2008 8:57 am

Hey, thanks Frank for including this in your hiking blog! :-) Looks great.
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