Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

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Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Aardvark » Mon 07 May, 2018 10:49 am

The southern section of the main Range NP offers NO graded tracks. Private property does little to facilitate access from the east.
The main north-south running watershed and the ridges running westward provide a number of opportunities for more experienced walkers.
Typically one could take one of the ridges from the west to the divide , move along the watershed of the divide and return via another ridge running westward.
The routes aren't without their problems in that clifflines exist in most places above 1000m alt.

Mt.Asplenium 1294m . A major feature on the Main Range traverse appx halfway from Spicers Gap to Teviot Gap. It is a triangular shaped mountain with the watershed of the Main Range reaching it from Mt.Huntley in the north. A route leads off SE toward Panorama Point. Another ridge goes SW toward Mt.Guymer 1204m. Low points in the ridge from Asplenium to Guymer can be accessed from pasture adjacent to Reedy Ck. There is about 150m-200m height gain from the Reedy Ck paddocks. A number of routes could be chosen. It depends on the regrowth after you cross the creek.

Our aim on a hot december day was to complete a circuit from the paddocks to Asplenium, then SE along the Main Range traverse to Panorama Point, Lower Panorama Point and back via Davies Ridge. A duration of about 6-7 hours with breaks. No water on the route so a minimum of 3L each.

The creek crossing was an easy rockhop with dry feet. Long grass with patches of lantanna to be skirted meant a winding route upward. Some cattle tracks do exist. We gained the ridge at about 900m alt and turned right to ascend further.
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Gaining the west ridge of Mt.Asplenium, Main Range NP
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West ridge, Mt.Asplenium, Main Range NP


The ridge is broad. There is evidence in places of a pad of old. It seems little used of late. Treefalls aplenty and vegetation patches require some deviation. The ridge began to narrow and at about 1050m a view extended eastward. We could see our planned descent route from Lower Panorama Point. In the background was Mt.Steamer, the Steamer Range and Lizard Point.
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Southern Main Range and the Steamers

A little higher some easy scrambling was necessary to a cliffline at appx 1120m. It went vertical from here. a quick inspection to the right confirmed no ascent that way. I was curious about a slip which i had determined to be about 50m over to the east but couldn't see anything. One of two landslips which scarred the south side of Mt.Asplenium during cyclone Oswald in 2013. They were easily viewed from a distance to the south. I saw them on google earth too.
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Landslip and cliffline on Mt.Asplenium
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Landslip on Mt.Cordeaux- cyclone Oswald 2013
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Landslip on Mt.Mitchell, Main Range NP

An inspection to the west (left) revealed an even less travelled route around the base of the cliffline. I honestly wondered if i had been the last person through. That was in 2005 .
Anyone could reason that if one followed the cliffline for long enough it is likely they would meet the route taken by those who climb Mt.Asplenium from the north. That could be as much as 700-800m. With one early turn in the cliffline, i estimate we went about 400-500m before ascent was possible. Even once above the cliffline, the distance to the summit is a couple of hundred metres.
The top of Mt.Asplenium is heavily rainforested. It is a large area with no specific clearing to designate the summit. The rock strewn floor, and vegetation, coupled with no water availability and limited sunlight, it does not really welcome camping.
Back in 2005 there were two of us who visited here from Teviot Gap in a day via the same route we took on this day. We were just getting above the cliffline when it was apparent we were not going to summit before losing the light. It was that close. Knowing the top was just as *&%$#! for camping as anywhere else, we soon chose to lay where we were. We gathered some leaf litter and got enough flat space to accommodate our sleeping mats only. We could locate our route SE off Asplenium in the morning.
One has to be careful leaving Asplenium to the Southeast. Initially it is flat. It is no doubt in the mind of anyone who has done it, that a drop off east is required at one point. It appears to just drop into nowhere because it is difficult to see Panorama Point. It is easy to keep a path SE on a ever narrowing spur to a dead end. From there you can see Panorama Point. You have to return then. Traversing straight across at that point is horrendous. Steep and thickly wooded. Back toward the top is a big rock cairn. It is at that point you go east. The descent is steep in places and over boulders covered in vegetation. As a result several parallel paths form but soon the ridge narrows and the path improves. A little undulation in the ridgeline and about half an hour after leaving Asplenium you would start rising to Panorama Point.
I recall seeing many a snake in this region. The top of the ridgeline is exposed to alot of sunlight from the north and is more dry sclerophyll forest with a grassy undercover. The rainforest is only a few metres away to the south.
The top of Panorama Point is a clearing that once had views. I've never seen anything from there in my time. It is a rise of 30-50 metres to the top. I believe it was once popular for camping. No water availability.
To descend from the top, you need to go south down steep grassy slopes to the top of a cliff break. A short 8-10 m scramble is necessary. A pack hauling rope is handy.
For a long time now i have sought to go between clifflines to the south of the saddle just before Panorama Pt. It takes you to the base of the scramble down from the summit. A few metres on the cliffline turns to the northeast. It passes through a few overhangs. They are often dry as they are protected from the prevailing weather.
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Red triangle slug. Main Range NP above 1100m alt

A hundred metres or more along the cliff a slight rise is needed to regain the ridge from Panorama Point to Lower Panorama Point.
The regrowth here can make it difficult. Initially it is steep. Most bluffs can be bypassed on the right. It is good to have a bearing. Lower Panorama Pt can't be seen until further down. The ridge narrows and the path improves. It is possible to stay on the crest of the ridge all the way. Some rocky steps are encountered but these are easy.
A superb, grassy, scenic saddle sits just before the final rise to Lower Panorama Point. On the north facing side is some clean flat rock from which to view the Main Range extending northward. Thirty metres back through the bush, on the south side, some vision of the Steamers and Lizard Pt. can be had. They are better further on.
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Saddle between Panorama Pt(above) and Lower Panorama Pt. Main Range NP

The last time a fire came through here was in Oct 2004. We were on our first Scenic Rim walk. ie a traverse over Main Range and the Macpherson Range to the coast. The skyline was ablaze between Asplenium and Steamer. We were passing through the foothills to the east on dusk. We had to bypass southern Main Range on that occasion.
Back then views from the Lower Panorama Point above were almost as good as the saddle. The bush has regenerated to completely block anything now.It is only a short rise east from the saddle.
A pad leads down to the south from the top of Lower Panorama Point. Steeply at first. It steers to the right of any obstacle or rock near the cliffline, avoiding any exposure.
It flattens out in places and soon steers right to continue following the cliffline. This is a most interesting part of the route. Fantastic views pop up. Southward and eastward. The route across to Mt.Steamer is clearly visible. There are two major knolls on the route. The first is the ridge we will descend west on.
The final part of the descent from Lower Panorama Point 1119m, is a southward facing slope. You should still be on a pad but the grass is long and the pad often slippery. It is about a 20m steep drop to a flat belt of rainforest 860m. The rainforest belt is rock strewn with a clear understory except for some vines. I hammocked here on my first traverse of the range. Still no water available.
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Panorama Pt , Lower Panorama Pt from near to Lizard Pt, Main Range NP

An easy path to the south for about 50m reveals dry sclerophyll forest again. The pad tends to the left, near to the escarpment.
Some treefall and vegetated patches twist the path a little. Once the rise begins again the ground becomes open and grassy.
Above, is another rainforest belt. It covers the first of the major knolls 976m across to Mt.Steamer. That is Davies Ridge.
At about 900m alt. and about halfway up to the rainforest, we go west, away from the pad on the escarpment. It is a contour at about the same altitude and skirting the top of any gullys staying below the rainforest belt. Several hundred metres of this reaches a point with great views of the Steamer Range to the south. The Steamer Range extends west of Mt.Steamer and parallel to Davies Ridge.
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Mast and the Funnel on the Steamer Range

The descent of Davies Ridge is straightforward. It is mostly very broad. The pad is clear. Reedy Ck paddocks can be reached earlier by dropping off to the north before a major knoll. Some cattle tracks and farm roads do travel down from low points on the ridge.
Last edited by Aardvark on Tue 08 May, 2018 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby ofuros » Mon 07 May, 2018 2:17 pm

Nice one Aardvark...thanks for the trip info & pics.
Mountains view are good for my soul...& getting to them is good for my waistline !
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Aardvark » Fri 25 May, 2018 12:06 pm

Thanks. I hope you'll find it useful.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Doylie » Fri 25 May, 2018 1:18 pm

Hi Ardvark, great notes and photos.

I attempted Spicers to Teviot a month back and am now on the hunt for a gpx track through Panorama point to Lower Panorama point.

You see I was a bit too hasty and took a wrong line down South of Panorama point. I think i needed to be about 50m east from where I abseiled down a short overhang. I found myself completely cliff bound on a narrow grassy ledge above a 40 to 50m drop.

I had a Sat phone with me and 4 hours later i was lucky enough to be winched out by the rescue 500 chopper. I did have a breathtaking view of Davies Ridge and the Steamers from that spot though - see photo.

Everything was going great up to that point and a loved the hike. I'm desperate to go back again to finish it off, probably again doing it north to south.

My wife however has (quite understandably) vetoed a return unless i have a GPS track to follow. Even then I think I may first need to bank years worth of brownie points first!

Did you happen to track your route though that section on a GPS and willing to share the file?

Thanks!
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Aardvark » Sat 26 May, 2018 7:13 am

To be honest i have never used the GPS to track a route. I use it occasionally to pinpoint where i am and that is always enough. So all i ever have left are a few waypoints which i never tend to do anything with.
I expect to be going through there again in august. I will endeavour to get what you want then. Other than that i would sooner take you through there myself, on a daywalk.
We have ascended straight to Panorama Point a few times directly from Reedy Ck paddocks and it makes a shorter circuit. As i mentioned in notes above the cliffs at the top of Panorama Point can be bypassed altogether. We might even get enthusiastic enough to do another water drop before august. We're doing the Scenic Rim again (4th time).
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Kent » Thu 29 Aug, 2019 8:31 pm

Thanks aadvark for the notes. I walked the route you described last weekend extending the walk to the Steamers Saddle then down Steamers Ck to Reedy Ck. The climb onto Mt Asplenium was straight forward. The hardest part of the walk was a small scrubby section on Steamers Ck including Gympie tree, however it was generally straight forward following Steamers Ck with some impressive groves of Hoop Pine. Started 8.30am finishing at 4.15pm. Track along the Main Range very easy to follow. Evidence of cattle on saddle between Panorama and Lower Panorama Pt. Steamers Ck was just flowing. Spring fed?
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Aardvark » Fri 30 Aug, 2019 11:05 am

Kent wrote:Thanks aadvark for the notes.
Evidence of cattle on saddle between Panorama and Lower Panorama Pt. Steamers Ck was just flowing. Spring fed?


I'm glad the notes were of some use to you, Kent.
I've never failed to get water west of Steamer saddle but this current dry period might have had me guessing as to its viability.
There really is nothing to stop cattle venturing as far as the area between Panorama Pt and Lower Panorama Pt. Disappointing though. It is a national park. They are likely to have been from the Davies ridge area. I assume you saw their poo. I imagine the only water for them would have been from the grass, early morning.
I once went off track from Steamer saddle to contour back onto the ridge between Pinchgut Ck and Steamer Ck. After a brief steep bit, close to 900m alt i hit a road which was quite passable all the way down to Mill Road, near Steamer Ck.
Thanks for the update.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby CBee » Sun 01 Sep, 2019 8:04 pm

The Steamer Saddle campground was covered in cow poo. I had to do some cleaning so we could pitch a tent. Unfortunately, the rain forest west of the saddle and the whole creek bed is also covered in poo, as well as the few water pool we found. We ventured further down the creek hoping to find some clean-ish water so we could continue our traverse, only to find two cows drinking from another small pool, and more poo everywhere. We inspected several water spots and none looked safe enough to filter/boil/treat.
Just posting this to let others know what the situation is with water up there. Not sure if this is acceptable, but the few water sources this classic walk have, should be better protected.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Aardvark » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 3:43 am

CBee wrote:The Steamer Saddle campground was covered in cow poo. I had to do some cleaning so we could pitch a tent. Unfortunately, the rain forest west of the saddle and the whole creek bed is also covered in poo, as well as the few water pool we found. We ventured further down the creek hoping to find some clean-ish water so we could continue our traverse, only to find two cows drinking from another small pool, and more poo everywhere. We inspected several water spots and none looked safe enough to filter/boil/treat.
Just posting this to let others know what the situation is with water up there. Not sure if this is acceptable, but the few water sources this classic walk have, should be better protected.


That's sad. Not particularly surprising though. I'm not sure anybody would do anything about it. Certainly an indictment on the management of our parks.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby CBee » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 8:14 am

I'm not sure anybody would do anything about it.

We are talking about essential water sources and a pristine area so close to big cities, a rarity. I also suspect, by observing the path taken by the cows, some significant erosion will occur between the creek and the flat areas where they sleep/rest. The tall grass on the saddle is all flattened. I assume the cows will have no problem travelling the ridge from Panorama to higher up towards Mt. Steamer, making considerable damage in a short time. The cattle is tagged so should be identified.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Aardvark » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 9:09 am

It's highly likely the cattle are from Reedy Ck paddocks below Davies Ridge. It's a relatively easy route for them. Those paddocks were repopulated not very long ago. There would be many a time in the past when they've accessed the range.
As for essential water sources. Those creeks (Steamer, Pinchgut etc) flow into Emu Ck and eventually the Condamine. Whilst you may consider them essential water sources for park visitors , the farming community adjacent to the national park would only see them as essential for farming. They don't provide water specifically for humans. I expect NPWS don't worry about it much. One of the reasons i have placed water in advance along the range during many a daywalk.
I imagine the task of fencing the national park and /or adjacent state forests, which would require negotiation on cost with many different landholders, is too great a feat for anybody to have completed or even attempted. Especially given the funding provided to NPWS. It has always been my impression that budgets within NPWS are used mostly to prop up middle management and all variety of programmes for wildlife study etc by university accredited individuals. They wouldn't consider it viable to spend money on lesser educated people to do work on the ground. eg track maintenance or erosion control or any serious attempt to eradicate plant pests and the like.
If you look at national parks and the availability of graded tracks over the last 5 or 6 decades. It has only ever diminished.

As for pristine areas close to a major city. I'm sorry but i have to laugh. These are not pristine areas. National parks are only a feature which have popped up within the last hundred years or so. Australia has a history of destroying the original nature of the land. It is going to take a huge shift in attitudes before that truly changes. Everything that's been done to date could be seen just as a facade. Perhaps you should look into the works of one of the most prolific explorers for who it is said discovered more territory than any man in history. An australian named Hubert Wilkins. If that doesn't destroy your altruism toward our relationship with the land, then i don't know what would. It is pitiful how he was treated by the australian government after his reports on australias destruction of species and territory. His name as an explorer has been hidden from the majority of australians, principally by the government.
Look for a book 'The Last Explorer' Hubert Wilkins Australia's unknown hero by Simon Nasht.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby CBee » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 9:32 am

Ah yes I meant essential water for users of this part of the world, as National Park visitors. It's all good after all, as you suggested, we can just pre-arrange caches of water along the range. And make sure we pay the fees to camp on approved sites, bury our waste away from streams/tracks and avoid to stomp on sensitive vegetation so we don't leave major trace. Also observe the sign and not camping at Lizard Point. This is probably as far as my altruism towards the land can go.
And yes, I surely will look into Wilkins, as I already read few book about explorers and pioneers.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Aardvark » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 10:49 am

Another very enlightening book more specific to SEQ that i would recommend you read is 'One Mountain After Another' by Arthur Groom.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby CBee » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 1:57 pm

Another very enlightening book more specific to SEQ that i would recommend you read is 'One Mountain After Another' by Arthur Groom.

Thank you, I'll have a look too.
Since you know the area better than anyone else, what would be, in your opinion, the quickest (or shortest) way to take up a huge stack of water lets say approx. half way between Spicer and Teviot? I'm assuming from the west.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Aardvark » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 3:28 pm

CBee wrote:what would be, in your opinion, the quickest (or shortest) way to take up a huge stack of water lets say approx. half way between Spicer and Teviot? I'm assuming from the west.

First i would ask if you are aware of or did access the water in Treefern gully. ie just south of the summit of Mt.Huntley. It's not perennial but it is only dry in the leanest of times. That's about halfway along southern main range.
https://flic.kr/p/5tY5Mo . This is below the point at which many people descend to from the summit. This is at appx 1120m alt.
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Barney Ck below Treefern gully April 2010
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby CBee » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 3:44 pm

Yes I'm aware but I decided that it cannot be 100% reliable right now. So maybe I take some water up Davies Ridge, that looks a reasonable quick way up the ridge (?)...
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby Aardvark » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 4:39 pm

One of the quickest and easiest, yes. Another is between Doubletop and Mt.Huntley. A good daywalk can be had by ascending Doubletop from Swan Ck area. A gazetted road leads up part way at appx 889418 and you can descend just before Mt.Huntley. Or alternatively go over Huntley and descend to Huntley saddle. A road goes back down to Swan Ck from Huntley saddle. The lowest point before the ascent to Sentinnel Point.
I found a taped route starting at appx 875416 last visit. It ascends from the creek south of Pt.771 and staying below the crest of the ridge to avoid vegetation for some way before continuing on the ridge to the knoll at 889432.
A daywalk we were on once from Doubletop saw up pass a group on that knoll . I suspect the leader of that group was the one who taped it. He seemed to be a bit of a local taking friends out. They didn't want to believe we had come from Doubletop on a daywalk. Odd. We can travel fast though.
I like the spur coming down from the cliffbreak on Huntley to the NW but if you don't get it right at the base near to the creek it can be hell with the vegetation.
The grassy saddle on the escarpment just to the north of Huntley (south of Pt.1067) is good for descent around to that spur but the same problem exists lower down with the vegetation.
One of my first traverses of Southern Main Range back around Easter 2000 (i think) saw us get water to the west of a low point between Doubletop and Pt.1067.
I believe it may have been mentioned in the Bushpeople's Guide. Things were wetter in general back then in SEQ.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby CBee » Mon 02 Sep, 2019 4:56 pm

Thank you for the notes. I will investigate all of these possibilities on a topo map.
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Re: Mt.Asplenium - Davies Ridge circuit, Main Range NP

Postby dalehikes » Fri 06 Sep, 2019 1:29 pm

Aardvark wrote:Things were wetter in general back then in SEQ.


Ouch. Main Range is incredibly dry right now...
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