Tramping in Fiordland used to mean long johns and porridge, sponge beds and long drops. Peeling off your muddy boots on the deck of a DoC hut and trudging through a curtain of sandflies to fill a billy with enough water to make mushroom soup. Booze? Only if you wrapped the bottle in your small clothes and carried it for eight hours. A shower? If you stood outside, one was sure to come along soon
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