Help Planning Solo Western Authurs Hike (A-K)

[CBee]

Yeah. I wouldn't stand in the "gale force wind and snow with my tent shredded" and die slowly. I would shelter near the toilet temporarily. But before all this apocalyptic scenario, I would have scouted a small sheltered bivvy cave 10 or 15 minutes on the left just before descending down to High Moor or even better, a decent cave on the way down Capricorn. But that's just me.

[Tortoise]

Oops. Double post.

[Tortoise]

The people that have died in Tassie in recent years have clearly thought they were prepared for the conditions - but weren't. The ones I can think of were solo, or became separated from their group. There were a number of near-misses. Hypothermia, which by its nature will cloud thinking, has been the most common cause, iirc.Then there was the guy who slipped off Cradle in icy conditions. Not experienced on rock in those conditions, over-estimated his capacity. He's dead too.

How is it not just common sense to start with something with less risk of harm, rather than picking one of the most challenging tracked walks available, renowned for some of the worst weather, solo? I can't think of any other outdoor pursuit that people would think it's a good idea to start with what is potentially one of the most difficult options. Is this choice for social media?

Perhaps I feel more strongly about it because of my own experience of hypothermia, when I lent some of my good gear to someone in our group who believed he had adequate gear, but didn't. We had had some experience, but not enough for the conditions we faced. I was not able to make rational decisions to save myself. I also know numbers of people who had good quality tents, pitched as well as possible for the conditions, but poles broke in the wind, and those ripped their tents. In each case, they were in a group, and were able to shelter in a tent vestibule if not inside a companion's tent.

[Tortoise]

And perhaps you haven't yet experienced the said 'apocalyptic scenario' yourself.

[JamesMc]

One thing that bothers me about this and other similar discussions is the implicit assumption that having a distress beacon somehow makes you safe.

It's concievable that in fine weather, you might sustain a fall resulting in broken bones or head injury, or you might badly sprain an ankle, or you might even get bitten by a snake. Or you might suffer something like a stroke or heart attack. In these cases, a helicopter rescue would be nice.

However, the main risk will be hypothermia due to cold wet windy weather, the severity of which most people can't comprehend. (Including some people who have walked the Western Arthurs in damp conditions and post on the Internet that it's not too bad.) There is no chance that a helicopter will come looking for you in this sort of weather, which can last for a whole week. When you are cold and wet, your clothes and sleeping bag are saturated, and your $100 tent has been destroyed, you will probably die in the first or second night.

Parks strongly advise that walkers take beacons, but in reality, this is probably just to facilitate the body search after the event.

JamesMc

[JaguarShark77]

You’re not stupid for asking questions - this is what this forum is for.

My two cents, for what it’s worth: I’ve a fair amount of Tasmanian bushwalking experience (though I’m a definite novice compared to many of the folk in this forum) and I wouldn’t even attempt the Western Arthurs. To be honest, your (in your words) “limited experience” sets alarm bells ringing when it comes to a walk like this. Perhaps I’m just unadventurous, but I also know my limitations. There are a heap of great multiday options down here that will showcase this state’s amazing natural beauty and still allow you to enjoy the journey with at least some level of safety and comfort. The Western Arthurs is not that kind of walk.

I don’t mean to rain on your parade, OP, but while I’m sure you’re a capable bushwalker, the Western Arthurs really are a different level to anything you’ve tackled before. I’d suggest checking out other options.

[headwerkn]

No point in reiterating the good advice already shared here, I'll just provide some examples from recent trips into the Arthurs on *why* it's good advice and ought to be heeded.

--

On our first WA trip, we came across a group who, having been pinned down at Lake Cygnus with bad weather for two days, had to abandon their traverse and backtrack out Moraine A, otherwise they'd miss their flight back home. Having spare days in hand is key to successful Arthurs trip. Inflexible schedules are just asking for trouble.

We were lucky to get across a flooding Junction Creek, ended up pushing to Lake Cygnus for better shelter in decidedly average weather and still waited out the next day ourselves as conditions were still terrible.

Moraine A to Lake Oberon is considered the "easiest" part of the WA range - and compared to Pegasus to Taurus, it is - however don't confuse that with "easy". It's still very steep and very rocky. I've lost count of how many people I've seen clearly looking out of the comfort zone with the drop in and out of Oberon.

At High Moor we met a young, sweet couple who despite good light gear and youthful fitness seemed to be struggling a bit. When one said "We're doing the Overland Track next, is that harder than this?" they could see the concern in our faces immediately. Turned out they'd wanted to do Frenchmans Cap instead, but in the middle of the COVID-era restrictions and new booking system they'd been unable to get a place. The Western Arthurs was the only other walk 'available' before their booked OLT pass, so they took it. Suffice to say, they learned that lesson the hard way... bad weather and tummy issues only adding insult to injury.

On our second trip in, wet weather and creek flooding caused plenty of chaos to our schedule and more risks being taken than were probably warranted. Lack of flexibility in the time we had available meant one objective couldn't be achieved and generally it was an exhausting and generally unpleasant trip.

On our third trip, lesson learned, we took a whole five days to do what I'd long thought could be done in three. We waited out a day and a half of bad weather (and minor flooding of our campsite) and ended up getting lovely conditions for "mountain day". Covering the 27km walk out in one day rather than the two planned wasn't so great when the day got hot, of course. Another spare day, had it been available, would have been appreciated.

Oh, and each time I've worn lightweight synthetic boots into the Arthurs, they've been destroyed by the trip. Both pairs had ~100km on them, total.

So yeah... don't do the Arthurs as your first Tassie bushwalk or your first week-long multidayer. If you haven't yet done the Overland and at least either Frenchmans or Mt Anne Circuit, I'd humbly suggest not even thinking about it until you have.

And give yourself at least two extra days of time and food on top of an extra buffer around any flights or other appointments.

---

I haven't yet done enough bushwalking on the mainland to confidently state this, but what I have experienced along with the various anecdotal evidence with visitors over the years, Tasmania's main multiday bushwalks are generally harder, less managed, less 'graded' and with fewer facilities and concessions to walker comfort safety than those elsewhere in the country. The same could likely be said of popular/known walks in NZ, Europe, the US and Patagonia etc.

Do visitors just assume that walks here will have the level of civility as those in their home state/country? Probably.

Do visitors see images of fancy huts from Three Capes etc. and assume all our walks are like that? Possibly.

Do PWS need to stress that they're not further? Hmm... I don't know. All that information has been on their website and signposted about for decades. Yet people still rock up on at the first hut at Three Capes or OLT thinking they can buy a beer, dinner and lunch for the next day like the refuges on Chamonix.

I think people need to do their research a bit better. Maybe PWS could have a short quiz you have to pass before you can book a walk? (only half joking)

I also wonder if the "Western Arthurs - Australia's Toughest Walking Track" tagline is seen too much of a 'cool challenge, bro' than a legit warning to those who's ambitions aren't in line with their skills and experience.

[weetbix456]

Brilliant post headwerkn.

[Nuts]

Well called but the poor fella's not going, not been going for a lot o posts: "Thank you all for the advise, I think I will reconsider and think about doing W Authurs in a few years once I can get a bit more experience and better gear"

[Tortoise]

Well called but the poor fella's not going, not been going for a lot o posts: "Thank you all for the advise, I think I will reconsider and think about doing W Authurs in a few years once I can get a bit more experience and better gear"

You missed this bit, Nuts:

Im actually kind of back onto the idea of doing the W Authurs this year. I have like 110hrs of annual leave saved up so I can probably get another week off work.

[Nuts]

Oh, thanks Tortoise, I did miss the first part of that post.

Yeah, fella, not the best idea. Turning back is always an option but on this walk you'll probably find that consideration happens where it's just as big a task in either direction. I've been up 3 times, all in reasonably good weather (only rained and snowed for a couple of days here and there), even then it was unexpected back spasms and then knee trouble that could have led to a typical rescue.

Go and get yourself cold, damp, exhausted and challenged a few times somewhere else, with easier outs.

[Nuts]

kRaydenH scores points for asking. Even if choosing to ignore the hard-line, amongst all the good advice offered.

[Son of a Beach]

So yeah... don't do the Arthurs as your first Tassie bushwalk or your first week-long multidayer. If you haven't yet done the Overland and at least either Frenchmans or Mt Anne Circuit, I'd humbly suggest not even thinking about it until you have.

And give yourself at least two extra days of time and food on top of an extra buffer around any flights or other appointments.

This is precisely what I tell people considering the Western Arthurs. Do the Overland Track (or similar) first to get used to walking for a few days with a full pack. Do Frenchmans Cap next, to get used to doing something a bit harder. The Arthurs are a significant level up from either of these. Anne Circuit is also a good idea.

[headwerkn]

Perhaps this thread should be sticky'd or otherwise left in a prominent place for future reference? It's not the first time the question has been asked, nor is it likely to be the last.

(Also perhaps a mod could fix the minor spelling mistake in the title, to aid searching?)

This is precisely what I tell people considering the Western Arthurs. Do the Overland Track (or similar) first to get used to walking for a few days with a full pack. Do Frenchmans Cap next, to get used to doing something a bit harder. The Arthurs are a significant level up from either of these. Anne Circuit is also a good idea.

Some kind of track hierarchy or unofficial-but-oft-referenced qualifying table might be of value? Most trail ultramarathons have qualifying events to ensure people don't naively sign up for something they don't stand at least half a chance of completing. From a walking POV, all local bushwalking clubs that run trips to Federation Peak pretty well universally require all participants to do a qualifying trip to Mt Anne beforehand to ensure they're suitably comfortable with airy, rocky ascents. I'm yet to come across anyone who thinks this is a bad idea... maybe we need to extend the concept? Maybe PWS need to actually adopt something like it?

Let's be honest, labelling a track "Grade 3/4/5" really doesn't mean much to most walkers, experienced or otherwise. Even if they're down with specifics of track grading standards, it really doesn't cover the nuances of challenges a particular track may contain.

Just thinking off the top of my head:

Western/Eastern Arthurs/Federation Peak
- Successful completion of Overland Track (for 5-6 day walk experience) and Mt Anne (for verticality/rocky traverses). Though really you should have a few years of solid multiday bushwalking experience before tackling it.

Mt Anne/Scotts Peak toLake Rhona
- Do Frenchmans Cap (technical track conditions, steep climbs etc) as well as one or more other alpine walks in Tasmania (or equiv. elsewhere).

Southern Ranges, Tyndalls, Lake Rhona/Denison Ranges to Bonds Craig
- Successful completion of OLT or at least one other multiday Tas alpine walk (exposure to bad weather at elevation).

Overland Track, South Coast Track
- Do one or more shorter 2-3 day walks (WoJ ideal) to test fitness and preparedness for extended trip and heavier pack on rough track in potentially changing weather.

Wall of Jerusalem
- Previous overnight walking experience, good fitness, gear previously tested etc.

Three Capes, Maria Island
- Must have an ability to walk (or move on a track, not being an abelist here) and a modicum of commonsense. Beginners start here

I'm unqualified to do so, but it would be interesting to hear from others with experience as to what tracks elsewhere in the country that would serve as a good "experience qualifier" equivalent.

[Warin]

I'm unqualified to do so, but it would be interesting to hear from others with experience as to what tracks elsewhere in the country that would serve as a good "experience qualifier" equivalent.

Some others in Tassie to give more variety could be good?

Penguin Cradle Trail
South Coast Track

[Letstryagain]

Mt Anne/Scotts Peak to Lake Rhona.

That is a much longer, much tougher trip than a basic A-K traverse.

[headwerkn]

Mt Anne/Scotts Peak to Lake Rhona.

That is a much longer, much tougher trip than a basic A-K traverse.

Hey, at least they'll be prepared
(obvious mistake/brainfart amended)

[phATty]

Southern Ranges, Tyndalls, Lake Rhona/Denison Ranges to Bonds Craig
- Successful completion of OLT or at least one other multiday Tas alpine walk (exposure to bad weather at elevation).

I'm not sure successful completion of the OLT is enough for the Southern Ranges. The Southern Ranges is terribly exposed and a bit of a nightmare in bad conditions past Pindars with the scrub and all. My mates and I attempted the traverse last year and had our tents ripped up at Pigsty Ponds by 100km/h gusting winds, only one of three of our tents survived and we had to turn back, this was all after a sweltering hot day with not a breath of wind in the air. Since then we have successfully made it to the coast, but there was a night at Ooze where it effectively happened again but we somehow survived by using trekking poles to brace our tents.

I would agree that perhaps the Southern Ranges doesn't elicit the same scrambling potential of the WAs but I'd actually argue the lack of amenities and for much of the way a cut track provides some interesting challenges. The Overland Track is fully cut with huts and almost no exposure both in a camping and scrambling sense.

I think some experience with scrub and camping exposure is a necessity for the Southern Ranges.

[headwerkn]

I'm not sure successful completion of the OLT is enough for the Southern Ranges. The Southern Ranges is terribly exposed and a bit of a nightmare in bad conditions past Pindars with the scrub and all.

I tend to agree - perhaps the wording should be "The Overland Track AND at least one other multiday alpine walk"?

To be fair though, much of the difficulty associated with the Southern Ranges comes simply down to weather*, and weather can make any walk - especially those without huts - a lot more difficult to the inexperienced. Another factor to consider.

* Of course, the weather on the Southern Ranges rarely stays good for more than a day or two

[north-north-west]

* Of course, the weather on the Southern Ranges rarely stays good for more than a day or two

And when it goes bad, boy does it ever go BAD!

[sbm3]

I'd like to shyly put my hand up, and admit I am the person who traversed the Western Arthurs as their first Tasmanian bushwalk, and in fact as one of my first overnight bushwalks.

HOWEVER the important point being, I did it in a group of 4, having been taken along by more experienced walkers, who *had* previously walked the Overland, South Coast track etc.

I got pretty in-depth guidance including being taken gear and food shopping in person beforehand.

I had a background in Blue Mountains canyoning and rock climbing as a member of a university club, so I had some off-track bush bashing and technical experience from day trips. But I was (and still am) pretty unsophisticated with backpack camping.

Mentally, I think being part of a group was vital. I got very frustrated being tent-bound at Lake Oberon for a few bad weather days (standard sideways rain and sleet). We also witnessed people have to turn back and walk out early because they didn't have the time to wait out bad weather. We took 10 days food and used almost all of it.

[Baeng72]

I think hard no for the OP.

These threads are equally interesting and disheartening.
All bit selfish on my part, as I'm interested in what locals think is required, and disheartening because it appears no amount of experience in Vic. will suffice.
Snow camped?, Sorry, not real snow/crap conditions up there. Climbed lots of spurs? Sorry, not real spurs up there.
I was planning on doing the A-K this summer, but health and lots of other stuff stopped me from getting past the 'I'd like to do that walk this coming summer' stage.

Anyway, for the OP, I'd pay to go in a group with someone who's done the walk before and is experienced with Tassy walking, if that's an option.

[phATty]

These threads are equally interesting and disheartening.
All bit selfish on my part, as I'm interested in what locals think is required, and disheartening because it appears no amount of experience in Vic. will suffice.

Don't be disheartened and I'm sure there are walks on the mainland that will qualify (I'm not sure of these, but someone else could chime in).

You know, the one thing to take out of all these threads is that some bushwalking in Tasmania carries a risk that's greater than alot of mainland walks. BUT and big but, there are lots of really great and fun walks that don't require as much skill. Like seriously, I hate people constantly asking me 'oo have you guys done Federation Peak? In winter?', the answer is 1. that's stupid, so no and 2. have you considered doing something else in the other 99% of the state?

The Freycinet Circuit, second to none wilderness
The Overland Track, arguably Tasmania's greatest wilderness track with full amenities, heaps of side trips and lots of fun
The North West, walks and mountains in remote wilderness that can be easily linked together
The South Coast Track, can't get anymore wild than having to fly to begin/end the walk
The Central Plateau, a multitude of tracks, tarns, exposed camping and alpine wilderness dotted with good tracks

OP has lots of options and none are worse than the views you'd get doing the WAs. Of course, it's something that we'd all like to do and it is special, but if you don't have the experience, there are lots of alternatives that don't require that upper level of scrambling experience mentioned and they often have less people on them.

Why is everyone out to do dangerous things and why do we neglect the other wilderness we have?

Of course, I mean this with no intent of upsetting anyone, but could we just appreciate everything else we have? OP can PM me and I'll spill some best kept secrets in our lovely state.

[Warin]

These threads are equally interesting and disheartening.
All bit selfish on my part, as I'm interested in what locals think is required, and disheartening because it appears no amount of experience in Vic. will suffice.

There be dragons! Or 'how not to discover Australia'.

There are equally contradictory thinking by 'experts' on bush walking in the (insert area of interest here, e.g. the blue mountains).

Result? You never go anywhere. Or you evaluate your own expertise, bravery and the actual information given.

[Baeng72]

I was being a bit tongue-in-cheek.
I have done the Overland, just over 4 years ago, and it was about the level I was at then, and lugging most of the gear for 2 people was a slog, but huts and short distances made it doable.
I'd like to think having done some much harder walks with scrambles and 1000+m ascents/descents, some in winter, that I'd be a bit better than than, anyway....

The problem with Tassy, it's it's location. I can't just drive for 4 hours and start walking like here in Vic.
Which is good for the environment, as it's less likely to draw big crowds, than say Bogong High Plains or Main Range in good weather (apart from Overland).
But because of that I can't just go do Frenchmans Cap, Mt. Anne circuit and all that.

Something like WA traverse if a one shot deal, if I turn back, there won't be another attempt. Can't justify the expense, time, whatever. And because I get 1 trip, I'd rather choose the glacial lakes of the WA than Mt Anne or Frenchmans.

I've sort of gone off the idea anyway.
I sort of understand the OP though.

[JamesMc]

I think hard no for the OP.

All bit selfish on my part, as I'm interested in what locals think is required, and disheartening because it appears no amount of experience in Vic. will suffice.

Actually, Helicopter Spur would be good preparation, provided it is done in heavy rain and with a really heavy pack.

JamesMc

[Letstryagain]

*Tassie.

Tassy is a dog's name.

[Letstryagain]

Southern ranges requires experience in scrub, and a cool head for WHEN you lose the track.

I'd probably say do the Arthur's before SR

[north-north-west]

And because I get 1 trip, I'd rather choose the glacial lakes of the WA than Mt Anne or Frenchmans.

And yet many visitors consider their Frenchmans or Anne circuit trips to be the highlight of their bushwalking careers ...
It seems to be a bit biting off the nose to spite the face. Or, if you want a different cliched old adage, better half a loaf than no bread. There's never any certainty in attempting any walk, and even getting no further than Oberon is an experience worth having.

[vagrom]

But a bit like getting off at Redfern.