South of Royal National park

[dlj]

Was hoping to do an extended hike continuing south of Royal National Park for up to a week. Can anyone help with how far I can continue roughly following the coastline south ??

[Vern]

I think you'd be able to get down almost to near Bulli Pass Using the Illawarra Escarpment Track and linking up some road/trails but I'd probably just catch the train from Otford and do another totally different walk somewhere else. I'm not saying you can't go further than that...I'm not totally sure.

[clarence]

Hi DLJ
I walked in this area for years and it is often overlooked by experienced walkers.
It is not a wilderness, but provided you are aware of this fact it is still a worthwhile venture, and you will see some very pleasant country along the way.
From the south end of the coast track you can go down to Bulgo and walk around the coastline, HOWEVER, these is a scary little cleft which needs negotiating. There has periodically been a plank over it to assist in crossing, but whether it is still there, who knows. This takes you around the coastline to Stanwell Park. The other option is along the road, via (or over ) Stony Batter Hill to the Lawrence Hargrave lookout and memorial. From here there used to be a rough track straight down the south brow of the hill into Stanwell Park itself. From there proceed through suburbia (or along the beach) to pick up the Wodi Wodi track either at the train station or south of the beach. Alternatively, on the main road south of the shops you can enter Stanwell Creek and head upstream under the viaduct and pick up the Wodi Wodi track there. It is well worth an explore to the large waterfalls up Stanwell Creek for a diversion of a few hours.
On the south side of the valley head up through the cliffs and out to the point of the spur overlooking the town. This is a magnificent campsite.
South of here continue along the Forest Path which has recently been extended most (all?) of the way to Bulli Tops. There are more campsites along here, and some very pretty forest and rock formations.
South of the repeater mast at Maddens Plains it is generally closer to the highway, and water and campsites above the cliffline will not be ideal generally.
At Bulli Pass I would cross (carefully, very busy) and continue south along the crest of the range. The forest is generally fairly open and you will soon meet up firetrails which will continue south more or less along the crest of the escarpment. There would be several areas for camping between here and Brokers Nose. Do note that if you stray too far west you will be in sydney water restricted area (where technically one should not be walking or camping).
At Brokers Nose head west along the ridges (and some mountainbike and fire tracks) to cross the Picton Rd interchange. Even though this is not technically legal it is far safer than crossing at the top of Mt Ousley Rd. From there head south to join Mt Keira road and south towards Mt Keira. There is a beautiful creek just west of the road with very easy walking, but again one should not technically be there.
The detour to Mt Keira summit is well worthwhile, and one could camp just below the summit in the forest off the Dave Walsh Track. From here head up to Robestsons Lookout, and continue south of Robbos lookout on a rough track just below the escarpment. At the old coal dump at O'Briens Drift head east along the mountainbike track, which will take you down to Staffords farm, or follow the ridge over Mt Brisbane to O'Briens Gap. There is some beautfiul forest for camping off the brow of the escarpment in the headwaters of a creek east of the ridge, just before the mountainbike track descends steeply.
From this area it is still possible to continue south for a few more days. It would be another two days to Johnstones Spur and Prominent Rocks which are on the NE spur from Macquarie Pass. THe walk from Macquarie Pass to Prominent Rocks is another ripper, even as an overnighter.
If you want more info PM me, and I can give you some info on a few very pretty little detours/passes/campsites/caves etc.
Good luck and enjoy
Clarence

[peterackland]

This is fantastic Clarence. I must try some of this soon.

[michael_p]

Clarence that's a very interesting route description. Thanks for sharing it with us.

The only thing I have to add is the Illawarra Escarpment in notorious for Leeches and Ticks. Worst Leech infestation I have ever seen was on the Forest Track. Take plenty of bug repellent with you.

Cheers,
Michael.

[melinda]

Hi dlj,
Once you got to Shellharbour (using public transport to get you past Wollongong and surrounds) you could start walking south along the beaches to Bass Point. From here you enter Killalea State Park, beautiful beach walking ('The Farm' and 'Mystics' beaches) which takes you down to Minnumurra River. (I think there is paid camping in Killalea.)
Then there are tracks, beaches and some streets all the way to Kiama. (Paid camping at Kiama) From Kiama you could pick up the Loves Bay to Werri Beach Lagoon track. (Beautiful coast line)
And from there you can follow coast line down to Seven Mile Beach NP (more camping) and Shoalhaven Heads.
There would be points along the way where you had to pick up more roads and travel through towns like Gerringong, but I think most of it is quite doable!
Good luck.

[johnw]

...I walked in this area for years and it is often overlooked by experienced walkers.
It is not a wilderness, but provided you are aware of this fact it is still a worthwhile venture...

Thanks Clarence for providing some excellent detailed information, which fills a number of gaps in my own knowledge of an area that is more or less in my backyard. I will also have to try some of your suggestions. I've walked many of the places you mention but only as fragmented trips. Interesting to see a plan for a contiguous trip through the region (acknowledging the occasional road diversions). A few points from my own experience/knowledge:

I last walked the Wodi Wodi track (south to north) between 18 months and 2 years ago. It had become very overgrown and eroded. Was a little difficult to follow in places but OK for experienced walkers. At that time NPWS had erected signage about the derelict state of the track and potential dangers. I don't know if any work has been done on it since.

Good advice about not crossing the Mt Ousley Rd. Three lanes of 100km/h+ traffic in both directions, aggressive drivers, large trucks etc. I definitely wouldn't attempt it.

Staffords Farm was getting very overgrown last visit (via Robertsons Roundabout) but still accessible.

I haven't been up there for a while but I believe there was a significant landslip at Mt Keira during the recent wet weather. It affected track access on the mountain including Dave Walsh's. Current situation unknown.

I'm scratching my head to remember the detail but I did a walk from the southern end of the Forest Path to the southernmost lookout at Sublime Point? I was mostly able to follow old disused tracks/overgrown fire trails, although there was also a bit of road walking along the Old Princes Hwy. I'll have to look at my maps to recall the exact route I took.

In my personal experience of the Forest Path I have never had leech problems there, probably because my visits have always been during dry periods. But there are definitely a number of places they would populate if moist enough, which I guess Michael found out.

I also second Melinda's suggestion for Loves Bay to Werri Lagoon (Kiama Coastal Walking Track). Easy but spectacular coastal walk.

[clarence]

Hi All,
Thanks for the comments on my little essay.
I worked and walked in the area for many years.
The ticks and leeches can be bad at times, but a lot of the time they are not especially bad (do take some insect repellent anyway).
I have not walked several of these areas for years, however, most of the forest is relatively good for walking (unless you get below the escarpment and into the lantana areas). I walked all the area from the Wodi Wodi Track to Sublime Point before the walking tracks were put in, and the bush was never impenetrable. So, if the tracks are indeed overgrown it will be an inconvenience, but will not be a huge issue (if you are a competent navigator).
I believe the track from Maddens Plains to Sublime Point was recently opened after several years of construction. I walked the section from Sublime Point to Bulli Tops a few months ago and it was completely clear and open.
I took a group of kids down the Dave Walsh track a few months back, and it was completely walkable.
IN addition to the main route through as described, there are heaps of little "side trips", passes etc that are well worth an explore. There are also a few smallish camping caves on the eastern side of the escarpment also, often with a great view or in magnificent coachwood forests.
If any of you want any more specific info let me know.
Clarence