Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

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Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Wirednomads » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 1:11 am

Western/Eastern Arthurs Full Traverse Attempt Solo

Statistics:

Start Weight: 63.5kg
Finish Weight: 62kg
Start Pack Weight: 38-40kg
Finish Pack Weight: 21.5 kg
Days Spent: 22 days
Days Spent in Tent: 5 days
Days Food Carried: 27 days
Food Carried: 20x Breakfast, 20x Dinner, 20x Lunch, 60x Energy Bars,
15x Misc Dehydrated Fruit, 1kg Chia Seeds (18-20kg)

Food Given to Me: 2 x Lamb Dinner, Dehydrated Rice, Pack of Chapati,
2x 18g Mars Bars, 2x 40g Protein Bars, 1/2 Cucumber,
3x Tea Bags, 100g Salmon, Small Bag Trail Mix,
1/4 Caramel Chocolate Bar, 3 Oreos, 1 Apricot Chew, Tape,
Ink Pen

Food Given Away: 2x Lunch, Berries/Apricots, Fruit Straps, 7x Energy Bars,
4x Dinners



Route:
February 17 - March 10, 2015



Days Before


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One month of work & twenty days of food on one table :)(: 60 Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner, 60 Raw Energy Bars, 20 Packets of misc. dehydrated fruit all cryvacced into this. I can't imagine what all of this looked like before it was dehydrated!! Most of the food is organic/wild and grown by Jack and Ben. Some of the most amazing fruit and vegetables I've had in my life. It has been crazy planning something like this and it would only be a dream if it weren't for these beautiful people. Thank you Jack and Ben :)(:

Ah and on a side note the raw energy bars we made are amazing! One 80g bar has 1550kJ (330cal), 11g protein, 19g fat, 34g carbs, and 16g fiber/sodium!!! My target kJ per day is 16,000kj.




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Beautiful jungle energy everywhere we go smile emoticon Thank you so much for the lift from the airport, bringing me to cygnet, and on to the ferry to bruny island. Love and light Celine :)



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A Dutch Eye. One of the beautiful girls whom picked me up upon arriving on Bruny Island, such a rough life ;)


Day 0 : Hitch Bruny Island to Hobart. Stay with friend from forum.

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Hitching across "the neck" on Bruny Island



Day 1: Leave Hobart 7:30AM. Arrive at Scotts Peak 12:30pm. Walk to Junction Creek.

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Just arrived hitching to Lake Peddar and get my first glimpse at the Arthur Mountains.



Day 2: Junction Creek up Moraine Alpha to Lake Fortuna. Take a wrong turn on the bluffs NE of Lake Fortuna. Descended into burnt vegetation, ripped tent bag, almost lost cooking pot. Nice introduction to what is to come.

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The top of Moraine Alpha looking down on the Arthur Plains



Day 3: Lake Fortuna to Cygnus. Decide to stay in this area for another night. Rope food at Lake Cygnus in case of rats. Go back to Lake Fortuna to retrieve lost socks, go for a swim, and back to Lake Cygnus before sunset.

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- Feeling free atop the range.



Day 4: Wake up to a cloudy landscape. Walk to Square Lake, camp on shelf above lake. Climb Procyon Peak for Sunset.

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The trail below Mt. Hayes.

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Intrigued by everything

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Looking down on Lake Neptune

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Early morning looking over Lake Cygnus

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Looking down over the Arthur Plains

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On the way to Lake Oberon straddling Mt. Hayes

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Spires off of Mt. Hayes

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Looking back at Mt. Hayes

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Many of the days the Arthur mountains were shrouded in clouds whilst the Arthur Plains looked to be having perfect weather!

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Camping on the shelf above Square Lake

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Evening from Pyrocon Peak

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Evening from Pyrocon Peak

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Evening from the Pyrocon Peak

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Evening from the Pyrocon Peak

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Sunset from the Pyrocon Peak



Day 5: Walk to Lake Oberon. Spend much of the day atop Mt. Orion. Go for a swim. Relaxing day. Clear night, new moon, great for Astrophotography.

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Looking back at Square Lake and the shelf I camped atop the night before.

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Classic shot attempt at Lake Oberon

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Dinner at Lake Oberon

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Sunset at Lake Oberon

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The Milky Way over Lake Oberon



Day 6: Clear Morning. Scary start up Mt. Pegasus with heavy pack. Go modular with pack to get through the rock squeeze. Almost descend wrong side of pegasus. Walk to High Moor by Sunset.

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Lunch overlooking Lake Uranus

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Looking back at the route over Mt. Pegasus and around Lake Uranus

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The mirror of Lake Ariel

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Sunset from High Moor



Day 7: Wake to high winds and rain. Wait out storm at High Moor until clear weather. Sun out for two hours in the evening.



Day 8: Wake to foggy morning. Shortly into the Beggary Bumps, descend wrong gully 100-200m before realizing it was the wrong direction. Traversed moss covered cliffs and came up the gully with a small rope across. Lost a few hours and felt exhausted. Rope bag before Haven Lake. Meet two other hikers, share dinner and stories. They give me 2x lamb dinners, 1 packet chapati, and half a chocolate bar.

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Views from High Moor of Mt. Capricorn

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Lake Saturn

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The start of The Beggary Bumps

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The start of The Beggary Bumps

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Within The Beggary Bumps

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This was the toughest moment during my trek within the Arthur Mountains. On day eight I traversed a section called the Beggary Bumps. That morning it was quite foggy and I became confused at where I was exactly. I ended up descending around 100-200m down an extremely steep gully in which I wasn't meant to go down. Considering the weight of my pack I didn't think I could climb back up. From there I risked climbing out onto steep moss-covered cliffs with dense vegetation to the point I could barely get through. Luckily I was able to take off my pack, climb up to find the trail, clear a path, and get back on track. I would rarely consider taking a selfie but I suppose I wanted to remember this moment. It was only 11am, yet I had already lost one contact lens, felt exhausted, spent, and quite scared to be honest. I think for the first time I realized I was alone, and how quickly things could turn bad within this environment if I rushed and didnt use the maps/track notes properly.

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Lake Mimas and Mt.Shaula

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Looking back over the gnarly as Beggary Bumps

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Lake Haven
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Nice to share dinner and stories with Andy and ??? So sorry I forget names so easily and thank you for the delicious Lamb and gravy dinners, chapati, and chocolate!!



Day 9: Walk to Promonotory Lake. Nice to have a different dinner, lamb and gravy over rice.



Day 10: Wake up high winds and rain. Walk to camping are North of Lake Venus. Spend day in tent during storms. Storms pass shortly before sunset.

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One of my favorite campsites above Lake Venus

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Streams above Lake Venus

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Sunset above Lake Venus



Day 11: Walk to Lake Rosanne. Rip pants in scrub. Cold night. Rain during the night.

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Near West Portal looking back over the Western Arthurs

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Near West Portal looking back over the Western Arthurs



Day 12: Wake to beautiful lenticular clouds. Storm hits while on Lucifer Ridge. Decide to take shelter for lunch under rock overhang. Clothes become wet after I decide to go back to Lake Rosanne for water. Build small fireplace once back and get a fire burning despite the rain. Dry most of my clothes and decide to spend the night on the ridge. Pitch tent uneven on top of button grass.

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Awake to Lenticular Clouds. Realize now what a warning these are!



Day 13: Spend until 5pm sheltered from the rain in front of a small fire. Rain clears around 4:30 so I pack up and walk to Pass Creek. Pass Creek was flooded, decided to camp on the plains and let the water level drop.

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A break in the storm



Day 14: Wake to clear skies. Dry gear and let water level drop. Walk to Stuart's Saddle. Almost step on large tiger snake while not wearing gaiters near Lake Leo. Meet two other hikers, share chocolate and stories. Learn of bad weather and possible snow next 3 days.

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Awake webbed in on The Arthur Plains

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Waking up on the Arthur Plains

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Early morning views of the Arthur Plains

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Sunset over Lake Leo

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Mark and Jeremy. Two great guys I met at Stuarts Saddle. First people I had the gift of conversation with in almost 7 days! They shared the weather forecast with me letting me know the snowstorm and freezing rain was incoming for the next three days. They helped motivate me to continue on in hopes of waiting on the storm. They gave me food, and a much needed ink pen to continue writing in my journal



Day 15: Walk to Goon Moor in hopes of waiting out the storm.

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Sunset over Federation Peak viewed from a ridgetop near Goon Moor.

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Sunset looking west from Goon Moor over Bathurst Harbor

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Sunset over Bathurst Harbor

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Panoramic looking west towards Bathurst Harbor



Day 16: Storms at Goon Moor



Day 17: Storms at Goon Moor

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Snow in Summer!!

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Snow and Pandani



Day 18: Storms at Goon Moor

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Sunset with Pandani and Scoparia from near Goon Moor within the Eastern Arthurs.

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Sunset with Pandani and Scoparia

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Pandani Sunset



Day 19: Wake to high winds and rain, decide to go back. Walk to Pass Creek. Very wet upon arriving.


Day 20: Clear Weather, slight occasional rain. Walk to Seven-mile Creek.

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The Arthur Plains

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The road to mushrooms!



Day 21: Clear Weather, slight occasional rain. Walk to Junction Creek.



Day 22: Clear Weather, slight occasional rain. Walk out and catch a ride back to Hobart.
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Rachel and Andrew - I met them at Junction Creek on Day 21. We walked out the next morning and they gave me a ride back to Hobart :)(:

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Just me

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My first meal. Amazing dirty pizza from La Bella in Hobart, Tasmania!



Days After
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My last sunset in Australia

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My last night in Hobart overlooking the city



Thoughts:

Most of the advice I was given should have been heeded, however I made due with the gear and weight that I had. My rain gear was not sufficient for this type of environment and my pack was extremely over weight for the first couple of weeks. Although having enough food to go slow was perfect for the time I wanted to spend. I should have had more than one change of clothing in case of getting wet. Having the gear strapped to the outisde of my pack caused a lot of rips and tears to everything. The food I carried turned out to work great although I will have more variety and less food next time. I planned to eat 15,000kj per day but this was impossible for me. My daily eating scedule was, breakfast, lunch, dinner, and 3 energy bars. I rarely could eat all the energy bars per day. Even with the food I gave away and the food given to me I estimate that I had enough food for 27 days. Also during this I was injury free. Never once had to use a band-aid or take any medication. I was also amazed that I lost practically no weight, less than 2kgs! My primary cooking fuel was Petrol, 1 liter, which lasted me 19 days. The Arthur Mountains were completely different than I anticipated. Although spending twenty two days within these mountains are one of the most amazing things that I have ever done. I feel like I learned more during this than any other trek I have attempted. I wish I could have attempted Federation Peak but I think it was wise I didn't push further in foul weather. I can always come back. After this I decided to come back home to the Appalachian Mountains, grab some new gear and head to New Zealand for a year January '16. Thank you to everyone who offered advice and suggestions while I was planning this. A huge thanks to biggbird for the hospitality, taking me rock climbing, and even driving me to the airport. Would love to payback the favor somewhere in the world, thank you both for being such amazing hosts! Also without biggbird I would have had no EPIRB or the sufficient maps I would have needed. I'm sure I left out a lot but here is my rough trip report. I apologize for the fire...If it wasn't out of necessity I would have not had one.

Love and light,

Jordan
http://www.facebook.com/wirednomads
Last edited by Wirednomads on Tue 07 Apr, 2015 9:25 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby wildlight » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 4:40 am

Hey Jordan

Words and images from a true artist. Apart from being ahead of your time and possibly in another dimension- (see quote below)- you've come out well.
Wirednomads wrote:
Route:
August 17 - March 10, 2015


Now, I don't know the state of your eyesight- but doing such a hike minus one contact lens would definitely make life interesting. These are great images and words, the selfie within the Arthurs speaks volumes. You got some great light in some of the scenes, and worked the images well in mono when the light was probably less than what you'd have preferred.

Roll on, safe travels.

Cheers

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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby simonm » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 5:22 am

Thanks for sharing Jordan. Great photo's from a great adventure.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby ofuros » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 6:57 am

Captured beautifully, a trip to be relived & looked back on over the coming years.... :mrgreen:
Mountain views are good for my soul...& getting to them is good for my waistline !
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby DanShell » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 9:15 am

I knew the pics would be brilliant, congratulations that is very inspiring.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby biggbird » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 9:22 am

Nice to see the report up! Glad to be of assistance :)
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Azza » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 10:42 am

Wow.. What an epic..! Good job on making it out intact!

Most of the advice I was given should have been heeded


There are so many people that post on here asking for advice and then selectively choose to ignore certain key points, its quite frustrating actually.
Maybe this site needs a FAQ on SW Tassie walking or sticky post / something because this advice thing seems to fall on deaf ears frequently enough.
We know your gear is going to get shredded and you are going to suffer with a heavy pack up pegasus and in the begary bumps.
And you'll probably have issues route finding... and at some point you'll probably get smashed by a storm.

But the Arthurs makes you a better walker and I'm sure the experience you've gained now will help you with future trips.
And you know what we're on about now ;-) our trails are a bit different to what you find elsewhere in the world.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby tazrich » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 10:48 am

Amazing photo's Jordan. What an adventure it must have been
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Nuts » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 11:44 am

Beautiful photoset, as others have said. That does look like one tasty pile of food.
Bit of a fail on needing the fire. Whatever.., i'm not much of a rules nazi but It's not a good idea leaving that pic on here mate.
Thanks for taking the effort to let everyone know how you went.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Scottyk » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 1:27 pm

Great trip report from a great trip
Not a fan if the fire, those pictures should be removed
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby walkabout » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 6:04 pm

Jordan, I was looking forward to the pics and report - and it doesn't disappoint. What an amazing adventure giving you a lifetime of memories. Now I know you're a Baggins, despite your denial :D
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby norts » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 6:50 pm

Me either Scottyk. I cant understand the need for it, there is a tent pitched in the shot, so he has shelter and also presumably warmth unless sleeping bag is wet.
Rest of the photos are very good.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby GPSGuided » Tue 07 Apr, 2015 7:34 pm

Brilliant stuff! Thanks.
Just move it!
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby whynotwalk » Wed 08 Apr, 2015 11:55 am

Hi Jordan - some great images from what sounds like a huge journey. Glad you picked up some learnings about walking in this amazing wilderness. Glad too that you removed the fire photo. I have to agree with Nuts, Scottyk and norts on that one. Frankly you were admitting to breaching the Fuel Stove Only law, which was not a smart thing to (a) do in the first place and (b) show that you had done.

If we're going to be nazis about any aspect of bushwalking in the WHA, it should be about keeping campfires out of this fragile area. It's not a trivial matter as the future of whole species and ecosystems depends on our individual acts. Your pic added a sour note to what is in most respects an amazing report.

cheers

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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Suz » Fri 10 Apr, 2015 11:06 pm

Awesome trip, from your OP it seemed so impossible with so much stuff! Great pics :D
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby tigercat » Sat 11 Apr, 2015 8:55 am

Thanks for the photos Jordan, I look forward to venturing beyond Pegasus in the future. Milky Way over Lake Oberon perhaps my favourite. Glad you made it to Square Lake and Procyon Peak at sunset.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Mark_O » Mon 13 Apr, 2015 8:34 am

Beautiful photos!

Like others here I am extremely disappointed about people lighting illegal fires in such a fragile environment. Unfortunately I have seen a lot of it over the past five years - with the worst area being the South Coast Track. In walking Moraine A to K last week my wife and I discovered two major fire scars (Junction Ck & Two Mile Ck) along McKays Track. We were shocked to see them and particularly as neither looked like they had any effort made to either put them out or remove the burnt logs, ashes and scar. Disappointed.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby GPSGuided » Mon 13 Apr, 2015 8:55 am

Petrol as fuel is interesting. Was it just because it was cheaper and available? Or does it provide more competitive energy density to other common fuels for the camp stove?
Just move it!
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby icefest » Mon 13 Apr, 2015 9:34 pm

GPSGuided wrote:Petrol as fuel is interesting. Was it just because it was cheaper and available? Or does it provide more competitive energy density to other common fuels for the camp stove?

IIRC it's because he already had the stove.
Men wanted for hazardous journey. Low wages, bitter cold, long hours of complete darkness. Safe return doubtful.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby GPSGuided » Mon 13 Apr, 2015 11:35 pm

Petrol specific stove?
Just move it!
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby icefest » Wed 15 Apr, 2015 12:35 pm

I think so.
Men wanted for hazardous journey. Low wages, bitter cold, long hours of complete darkness. Safe return doubtful.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby whynotwalk » Wed 15 Apr, 2015 2:41 pm

GPSGuided wrote:Petrol specific stove?

Maybe a multi-fuel, like this http://www.wildearth.com.au/buy/msr-dragonfly-multi-fuel-hiking-stove-burner/11774

... or since Jordan is from the USA, where the term "shellite" is not used, he may be referring to that.

cheers

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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Strider » Thu 16 Apr, 2015 7:03 am

Shellite is known as white gas in the US, is it not?
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby whynotwalk » Thu 16 Apr, 2015 10:16 am

Strider wrote:Shellite is known as white gas in the US, is it not?


Yes, that's what I'd heard. Also white spirit.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Nuts » Thu 16 Apr, 2015 10:33 am

iirc he said petrol for his msr stove, in the other thread. I asked about it, tried petrol and wouldn't be first choice.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby stu » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 9:26 am

Great photos & congratulations on getting through.
Totally appalled by the fire lighting tho, this shows an inherent disrespect for our fragile & precious wilderness.
As others have said, you had a tent, a (dry?) sleeping bag & i'd assume some dry clothes, this was totally unnecessary.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby north-north-west » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 6:23 pm

stu wrote:Great photos & congratulations on getting through.
Totally appalled by the fire lighting tho, this shows an inherent disrespect for our fragile & precious wilderness.
As others have said, you had a tent, a (dry?) sleeping bag & i'd assume some dry clothes, this was totally unnecessary.

+1
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Nuts » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 7:23 pm

Maybe it's for the exercise but i'm sure, with a page of reminders, the message is across.
In this case, It could be as much a failure to communicate how seriously this is taken.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby jmac » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 9:07 pm

If you had done your research thoroughly you were in no doubt that fires were not permitted. If conditions were good enough to stay out of your tent long enough to light a fire, then no emergency existed; you just wanted a fire. If I was in a position of authority I would probably forgive this once, because of the difficulty of obtaining a conviction, but if you ever showed such disrespect to our law again I would prosecute to the max. Great pictures, but please show more respect and just tough it out next time.
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Re: Western/Eastern Arthur Range Solo Traverse 22 Days

Postby Nuts » Fri 17 Apr, 2015 10:21 pm

..should just add, for my part, I feel a bit guilty bringing it up. The pic/s(?), that he put up. I just thought they should go asap, I didn't get to delete the reference to them in my post in time.
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