South Coast Track December 2022

[oldsalt671]

South Coast Track
Guide Book: South Coast Track by John Chapman
E-Guide: South Coast Track, Farout (Guthook Rebranded)
GPX: Trail Hiking Australia https://www.trailhiking.com.au/hikes/south-coast-track/
Tides: Maatsuyker Island, Recherche Bay
Party Size: 9 consisting of 3 Oldies, 3 Rovers, 3 Venturers. 5 Tents
Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nzH514XtA5BwujWt8


Friday 9th December – Melaleuca to Point Eric

Chapman: 3.5-4.5 hrs walking
Actual Time: 2.75 hrs

Some issues with the brakes on one of the planes meant that our 2:30 pm departure was delayed. The upside was due to the weather we flew along the coast so we were able to observe the track from the air. Just stunning. Chatting to the pilot reinforced the view that we should skip camping at Louisa Bay and take on the Iron Bounds a day early to beat the weather
Luggage and hikers spread across three planes meant that we didn’t start until close to 6 pm. Days are really long at this time of year, with sunset around 8:30 pm so we got in just after sunset. Some sections of the track were underwater and the duckboards were quite slippery in places. Beautiful start to the hike walking the valley between Bathurst Range on your left and New Harbor Range on your right. Plenty of room at Point Eric for all of us and a couple of other hikers. Goring Creek was flowing well so plenty of water available.

Saturday 10th December – Point Eric to Louisa River

Chapman 5-6.5 hrs walking
Actual: 5.7 hrs inc lunch stop
Louisa Bay Side Trip: 2.3 hrs

A set of stairs now takes you up and over Black Cliff. No need to time the tide. Chatting with the ranger prior to the hike he advised you haven’t been able to safely walk the base of the cliff for some time even at low tide. A good portion of FRP mesh from Buoy Creek to the base of Redpoint Hills. Don’t underestimate the steep climb to the top with full packs. We felt like we were working pretty hard. I will never forget coming over the top and seeing the Ironbound Range for the first time, stunning. Faraway Creek and Louisa Creek were both calf depth. We dropped packs and did the side trip to Louisa Bay, well worth it although it became very boggy close to the ocean. In the little cove just around from the campsite, water was failing like rain from the soak on the right and the little stream on the left was also flowing. There would have been no issues camping there as water was readily available. Say a Nalgene bottle every 5-10 minutes or so. I took some video in the attached pics.
Just prior to Louisa River there is some very steep narrow steps that took a little bit of negotiating. Louisa River was easily crossed, again thigh high but running harder than the creeks.

Sunday 11th December – Louisa River to Little Deadman’s Bay

Chapman 6-9 hrs walking
Actual: 9 hrs inc lunch stop

Climb Up the Ironbounds: 3.5 hrs
Descent to Little Deadman’s 4.5 hrs
Slippery duckboard leading to the start of the climb. Very good track on the way up the Ironbound’s. It was clear on the way up, so there were great views. We were told there was a track to the actual summit of the Ironbound Range but we couldn’t find it. The weather was closing in and it was starting to rain so we decided to ditch the summit. The first part of the descent is quite fast but slows dramatically with some very tight over and under sections where trees have fallen. At one point it almost felt like we were walking down a creek bed. At around 200m ASL the track meanders and the last section into Little Deadman’s seems to take forever. A wet set of duckboards above a small cove proved extra slippery with no chicken wire so I had my first significant fall of the day. It almost sent me hurtling down the cliff into the cove. We would take mud over wet duckboards any day. The camp at little Deadman’s is on the other side of the bridge over the creek. Very flat and spacious, just be wary of the monster quoll who had no hesitation sussing out cooking.

We had met a couple of Americans heading towards Louisa Creek at around 4 pm after we had finished descending. They ended up turning back as the female hiker had an injured knee. After liaising with emergency services to provide assistance it turns out they were uninsured and balked at the potential cost of a helicopter flight. They were fortunate to be able to flag down a cray fishing boat that was returning to Southport that day. Very lucky indeed. It needs to be said that this hike should not be taken on without the appropriate insurance eg. Ambulance or other. While a low probability, the risk of serious injury is not zero and helicopter extraction will likely be the only option.

Monday 12th December – Little Deadman’s Bay to Osmiridium Beach

Chapman: LDM to Prion Boat Crossing 3.5-4.5 hrs
Actual: 4 hrs

Total time to Osmiridium including boat crossing and lunch: 8 hrs
Really lovely creek at the start of Prion which is the last good water until Osmiridium. It made the perfect lunch stop. We walked Prion Bay Beach at close to high tide. Despite the high tide It was still a fast walk. There are currently only two boats at the New River Lagoon crossing. The track around New River is fast and really fast and scenic. Looking back towards the Ironbound Range, the top was totally obscured by thick cloud. It was definitely the right call to take them on while the weather was favourable.

The bog as you approach the turn-off to Osmiridium is super slow going. Some deep holes to watch out for. The campground at Osmiridium is very nice and the creek was flowing well when we were there. We extracted the first of two bush ticks from one of the hikers here. I was a little surprised, leeches were on my list of parasites but not ticks.

Tuesday 13th December – Osmiridium Beach to Granite Beach

Actual Time: 5 hrs including lunch

This was our first sleep-in day as the low tide was in the afternoon. Chatting with the ranger prior to departing he strongly suggested that we wait for low tide. The bog leading out of Osmiridium in the Rocky Plains is super slow. The trail braids and there are definitely “A” and “B” lines. Some of the holes are waist deep so it pays to test with a trekking pole before launching in. Once off the plains, the hiking is beautiful, muddy but coastal rainforest. One of my favourite sections. We reached Surprise Rivulet on an ebb tide. The Rivulet was wide but not deep. There is a steep rocky clamber up to a set of stairs a rope aids the endeavour. We arrived at Granite Beach on low tide, which reduced the amount of rock walking to around 50%. The rocks are pretty grippy in the dry but very wobbly. The traverse up the cliff face near the waterfall looks a little sketchy but the rock is very grippy especially on the sections with agglomerates. The waterfall was pumping and we took the opportunity to shower and wash the mud out of clothes and gaiters. The second tick was discovered and removed.

Wednesday 14th December – Granite Beach to South Cape Rivulet

Chapman: 5-7 hrs
Actual: 7.5 hrs including lunch

The climb over South Cape Range was probably my favourite part of the hike. The sun was out. It is very boggy and has lots of tree roots etc but he climb has excellent views if you take the time to look back over your shoulder. By this stage in the hike, our packs were appreciably lighter and we had gotten used to the mud. The biodiversity in this section is incredible and I was happy to take my time and take it all in. Again, we timed the South Cape Rivulet crossing for low tide. Rather than plunge straight across we found it worthwhile walking upstream a short distance and over a rocky outcrop. You could then split the crossing into two bites that were thigh-deep. It is worthwhile looking at the Rivulet on Google Earth prior to departing.

Thursday 15th December – South Cape Rivulet to Cockle Creek

Chapman: 3-4 hrs
Actual: 3.5 hrs including a break at Lion Rock Campsite

Just in case you thought you had escaped the mud there is one final slogfest around Coal Bluff. Lots of mud and razor grass. In my opinion, this was actually the worst section of the track, or at the very least the most unrewarding. All is forgiven when you finally reach the top of Coal Bluff and see Lion Rock. In our earlier planning were considering hiking to Lion Rock to shorten the time to meet the bus that day. I am glad we didn’t and had instead opted to bring forward our crossing of the Ironbound's and spend our last night at Cockle Creek. It would have been a huge day from Granite through to Lion Rock.
Once you turn inland towards Cockle Creek the track is quite fast and a lot more signs of maintenance and infrastructure. We enjoyed our last night at Cockle Creek.

As a side note it was very enjoyable walking the first three days with Tim Savage of the Australian Hiker Podcast. https://australianhiker.com.au/episodes/

Cheers

Nigel

[bumpingbill]

Great report. Really nice to read about the South Coast again and look at some amazing aerial photos. Thank you!

[phATty]

Brings back memories of one of my favourite walks. Hope you had a ball!

[north-north-west]

I fail to see what insurance status has to do with the need for evacuation. There is no charge for the Police S&R rescue chopper in Tasmania.

[deadwood]

Thanks for that. It was good to see a bunch of photos before I commit to carrying the extra weight of my full frame camera there soonish.

[wander]

Chatting with the ranger prior to the hike he advised you haven’t been able to safely walk the base of the cliff for some time even at low tide.

Interesting, we had no issue crossing round East to West just prior to low tide early Jan 2023, we did have to up the pace a little to ensure we had time but was all straight forward. We did have the advantage I've been about it a few times over the years and knew what to expect. Going round blind for the first time increases the risk of it going wrong somewhat.

I'm disappointed the original sign prior the headland track being put in that warned of "death" if you got the rounding of the rocky point wrong has gone.

[Wokeunicorn]

First week of October on the last day into Cockle Creek. Never saw another person the entire walk. Bliss