I've had this walk on my list for a couple of years now but hadn't had the opportunity to make it work. Due to some bad weather cancelling an alpine hike I figured I'd make it happen! Completed a solo circuit anti clockwise January 1-3. Previous trip reports were quite handy to assist with the planning as this was my first time in the northern section.
Day 1: Arrived at Tidal River around 10am to check in and get the permit. Needed to speak with a ranger before they would issue the permit despite having completed the paperwork and self-assessment required to make the booking. This is probably a good thing as some first-hand experience can be gathered.
After getting all that sorted and driving to Five Mile Carpark was on the trail for an 11am start. Five Mile Road was easy walking despite a strong headwind, although in the patches when I had wind cover I realized how hot walking this section was without the wind. Stopped in at Barry Creek to check the place out, topped off water. Crossed another couple of well-flowing streams on the way through to Five Mile Beach, the last one about 8km before Five Mile Camp. Five Mile campsite looked quite nice, someone had left a huge cooler bag and jetboil canister there. I’m assuming they must have been off on a walk somewhere but didn’t see anyone.
Miranda Creek crossing was easy as tide was rather low. Easily found the cairns and flagging tape marking the start of the trail to Johnny Suey. The climb out of Five Mile is quite steep and rather overgrown but doesn’t last long. Encountered first navigational hurdle with a downed tree that had a couple of pieces of flagging tape in it. After working through the tree assuming it had fallen on the trail I checked the GPS and realized the trail turned off behind a boulder! Aside from that the Five Mile-Johnny Suey trail was easy going if somewhat overgrown.
Arrived at Johnny Suey around 6pm as the last of my water ran out, but no worries as I’d read reports there was great water to be found. Campsite itself is tiny and rather overgrown, I almost missed it altogether. Some toilet paper around camp which was unfortunate. Got camp setup and went in search of the streams for water, only to find both streams were brackish. This was rather disappointing to say the least! After consulting the map it showed a potential water source around 8kms into tomorrow, otherwise the whole section to Tin Mine would be dry
Day 2: Struck camp and on the trail by 6am as somewhat stressed about the water situation. Map showed that the trail to Three mile from the end of Johnny Suey could be hard to locate, but there was a sign right near an arch in the trees with some flagging tape. Trail was easy enough to follow, and though both my map and GPS showed the trail staying elevated, the flagging tape lead me down to the rocks. What followed was around an hour of rock hopping while avoiding the spray from waves around to Harman Cove. Rather unpleasant. There was then a second much smaller rock section to make it onto Three Mile Beach.
Found a small stream at the end of Three Mile Beach, unfortunately also brackish. Beach made for nice walking and was soon at lighthouse point. The rope up to the beacon proved quite handy. From the small clearing at the beacon the trail looked rather overgrown, spotted my first snake almost immediately. On with the gaiters and gloves (thanks to previous report for this tip) and into the scrub.
The trail across to the other side was uneventful, rather overgrown but easy to follow trail. Very hot and tiring work with no water though. Eventually popped out onto the beach for the beach walk section rather dehydrated and started the walk up to Tin Mine Cove. The short section from the beach to the campsite is quite pretty and felt similar to the Southern section. Upon reaching camp around 12pm I quickly dropped my pack and went down for some glorious water!
Tin Mine Cove was probably the nicest campsite of the circuit. That afternoon I was sent some Severe Weather notifications for day 3, including large hail, flash flooding and electrical storms. With the swamp looming tomorrow I decided an early start would be best to try and clear the swamp before the worst of it hit.
[Safety note for Day 2: I would not recommend trying this without water. It was certainly an unpleasant experience, and I was monitoring myself very closely throughout the day for dehydration symptoms. I was also conscious to move slowly and methodically for safety]
Day 3: Struck camp and was on the trail by 6am again with the sunrise, now carrying an extra litre of water. The backtrack down to the beach was quite nice walking, and the very flat hard sand made for easy walking to the turnoff inland. The rain was attempting to start from about 6:30, so before heading inland it was on with the wet weather gear, gaiters and gloves.
The inland section doesn’t ease you into how tricky it’s going to be, it’s overgrown almost immediately, and I managed to lose the trail within the first couple of minutes. Out with the GPS and back on track. This section was hard work, made uncomfortable by the rain. It’s remarkably easy to lose the trail and even when you’re on the trail, half the time you can’t see it for the scrub. There were a number of times when I was standing next to a marker, unable to see where the trail went in either direction.
With the assistance of the GPS a number of times to get back on trail, I eventually made it to the swamp crossings. The first one went by relatively smoothly, with water just above the knee, though quite sticky mud at the base. The larger crossing also went smoothly, reaching mid-thigh depth towards the end. The mud was even stickier for the larger crossing, at one point it attempted to take my shoe clean off.
Once past the swamp crossings it was a matter of repeating the previous experience of forcing through scrub, and then checking the GPS if you haven’t seen any flagging tape for a while. The closer I got to Lower Barry Creek the easier the navigation became.
Arrived at Lower Barry around 11:30am, another very nice spot for camp. This was my intended destination for Day 3, but as it was still early, still raining and I was soaked through I decided to push on. I’m not sure there’s any rain gear that would make it through that sort of wet scrub bashing without wetting out.
After Crossing Lower Barry Creek and emptying the water out of my shoes, I picked up the tape marking the continuation of the trail and headed out. The trail was pretty quickly a repeat of the pushing through wet scrub, which rapidly refilled my shoes!
The trail became easier as it went on, and I reached Five Mile Road about 2 hours after leaving Lower Barry. By this time the rain had stopped, and there was no more wet scrub to push through, so off with the wet gear and onto the uneventful road walk back to the car just before 3pm.
Summary:
Overall this was a great walk and a great experience. Apart from some boats at Tin Mine Cove I saw only three people outside the carpark, all on Five Mile Road.
Should have taken more water for Day 1 to cover Day 2. While there was plenty of water around it wasn’t drinkable. To be safe in future I’d assume no water available between where Chinaman creek crosses Five Mile Road and Tin Min Cove.
Previous advice on the tides is very good, I had easy crossings and beach walks were some of the easiest beach walking I’ve done. I did the rock hopping at mid tide, and there wasn’t a ton of room available.
GPS for Tin Mine-Lower Barry section is (almost) essential. I’d recommend a dedicated one without a touch screen, as my phone screen was problematic in the rain.
Five Mile Road would be terrible in warmer weather
Thanks to everyone who’s provided information and reports for your help!