Dusky track - difficulty?

[Moh]

Hi All

For those who have done the Dusky Track, I’m curious to know how you would rate it in terms of difficulty compared to other tramps you have done. Looking for my next challenging tramp in NZ, but I find it hard to believe the online claims of it being NZ’s hardest track. For context, my last tramp was 16 days from Arthur’s Pass to Ivory Lake (out via the Tuke / Dickie Spur), Due to time constraints for my next tramp, I would be keen for something a bit shorter but similar level of physical difficulty.

Any opinions or comparisons from those who have walked it are appreciated.

Cheers,
Moh

[wayno]

its very slow going, a endless deep mud and tree roots, in heavy rain the valleys flood and are impassable.... go as far as you can on good days and wait out the wet ones...

[Ground parrot]

I did the dusky track in a group of three in 2020. I think it's got the rep of NZ's hardest "tracked" hike - but I'm sure there are many off-track adventures far worse. It is physically a challenge but more so the mental game when you are doing about 1km per hour. As Wayno says, lots of mud and tree roots, it's just impossible to make good time regardless of how fit you are. We took longer than the DOC time estimates each day, and two other groups who started the same day as us intending to "double hut" just couldn't manage it despite being fairly fit and hardy. We walked it in late Jan and struck it lucky with pretty good weather the entire time but the track was still a bog. If I remember correctly, some of it skirts around the Seaforth river which is very obviously prone to flooding. You would have to wait it out if the track goes underwater, and it would be near impossible trying to walk it in the immediate aftermath of flood because the path goes right along the river for a few km. I'd allow a good deal of flexibility to go in a good weather window.

It is also worth checking out the elevation profile. The 1100m descent from the Pleasant Range wrecked my knees for the rest of the trip and I've never had problems with them before (or since), and then the track then takes you back up and over the 1000m+ Centre Pass. There are parts where you climb down the tree roots like ladders, there are a few chains but a couple more are needed for the tricky swing and drop sections. In summer the sandflies are a pain at all the huts at lower elevation or whenever you stop, but I imagine the track is only doable in summer. The three-wired bridges are nerve wracking if you havent got a head for heights (I think there are 21 of them if you go to supper cove, and a couple are high enough and long enough to make you tread very carefully). On the plus side, there isnt really any scrub bashing, and no risk of getting lost. The forests are incredibly beautiful, you'll have the track and maybe the huts to yourself, lots of friendly birds and kea, and if you get good weather when up on the passes it's absolutely magic with snow capped peaks all round and the money shot view down to dusky sound. There's always a river or lake to swim in after a long day (wim hof style). And I'd highly recommend a rest day at Lake Roe Hut and explore the ranges for a day and chill by one of the alpine lakes if it's good weather. I often daydream of going back and just spending a few days at that hut.

We ended up skipping the Supper Cove side trip as we were happy just to complete the through hike. We took a couple of rest days at the huts along the way instead. When I finished it I thought never again, but weirdly it has stuck in my mind as something I may return to one day. A very memorable trip. Happy to help with any other questions where I can.

[Moh]

Hi Ground Parrot. Thanks for sharing, it is truly appreciated. Oddly enough, it sounds right up my alley (except for the sand flies, but there is no avoiding them). I will now definitely have a closer look at it, and let you know if I have any questions.
Cheers,
Moh.

[andrewa]

Sandflies…..MYO Lycra socks and wrist guards/gauntlets - they don’t bite through lycra, whereas they burrow through socks. Lycra leggings work.
1/3 dettol, 1/3 tea tree oil, 1/3 baby oil as repellent. Works as well as deet but doesn’t melt plastic or make your lips tingle
Head net.
Dark pants, light shirt…they like dark things

I’ve spent years sorting out how to enjoy the west coast NZ bush with them whilst fly fishing. And the more you are exposed to them, the less the reaction…..ie multiple trips, it mass exposure on one trip!

Going to meet and greet them in 3 weeks on a fishing trip.

[Moh]

After quite a bit of reading, I've come to the conclusion that I'm not getting excited by the Dusky Track. Not sure why, but I have accepted that is how I feel. Too much hype maybe???

I'm now thinking I'll head over in mid Dec and maybe attend to some unfinished business, either:
- walk the southern end of Kahurangi NP. I previously walked from Boulder Lake to Mt Owen, but would love to walk the Matiri Range to 1000 Acres Plateau
- I have unfinished business in Nelson Lakes NP, namely St Arnaud to Lewis Pass.
- Lake hop along the Serpentine range from Harris to Unknown. Have walked past the turn-offs to both Lake Wilson & Park Pass Glacier a few times, but have never had the time to go check them out & spend some time there.

Much to ponder.
Moh.

[bernieq]

- I have unfinished business in Nelson Lakes NP, namely St Arnaud to Lewis Pass.
- Lake hop along the Serpentine range from Harris to Unknown. Have walked past the turn-offs to both Lake Wilson & Park Pass Glacier a few times

Yeah, St Arnaud to Lewis Pass was a fabulous tramp (wrote it up as an article on tramper.nz). I've looked at the Serpentine Range too, after tramping the 5 Passes route (with an extension through Lake Nerine & North Col - also written up in tramper.nz). The side trip up to Park Glacier was great fun (and so good to have the pack off the back after the climb up from Hidden Falls Creek). Lake Unknown, however, is out of my capabilities, I fear. FYI, I'm quite sceptical of the Lake Unknown route(s) posted in routeguides.co.nz (last time I looked, at least).

[Moh]

Thanks for the info Bernie. I think I've decided to lake hop for the next trip. If the Lake Unknown route on routeguides is too difficult, then I'll just hang out at the terminal lake. A similar route has made it into Moirs. I'm also thinking that I might try to get to Fohn Lake and out via the Beans Burn. I walked the 5 passes + lake Nerine + North Col + Routeburn + Caples at the end of Feb 2013, and have wanted to go back to Fohn Lake ever since. Had magic weather. If I'm going to lake hop, why not squeeze in another one if possible . If the weather slows me down, I'll just head out via the Rock Burn.

Moh

[Moh]

@bernieq I see you walked the 5 passes during Feb 2013 also. We set out from the Routeburn shelter on 19/2. Arrived at lake Nerine 23/2. Must have just missed each other

[bernieq]

Fohn & Nerine are both pretty special, in my book.

Did you walk the 5 Passes clockwise or anticlockwise? I assume anticlockwise (so you were in front of us) as we met only one (largish) group in Firey Col.

We started at the Lake Sylvan carpark (22 Feb) and went anti-clockwise so we arrived at Lake Nerine 28 Feb - 5 days behind you. That was an amazing period of fantastic wx. We combined the St Arnaud-Lewis Pass trip with 5 Passes (with 2 days in between) and had 18+ days of perfect wx apart from a little drizzle at the Angelus on Robert Ridge.

[Moh]

Yep, anticlockwise. Started at the Routeburn shelter, then went over sugarloaf and made our way across to the Dart then up to the mouth of the Beans Burn. All in all I think we ticked off 11 passes by the time we walked out of the Caples We briefly met a guy from Brisbane on park pass, and that was it. There were a bunch of dry bags hanging from a tree along Hidden Falls Creek, maybe they were a food drop for the party you mention. After a week of solitude, we then shared Routeburn Falls & Lake Mackenzie huts with 45 very excited and loud people, I found the adjustment difficult.

[bernieq]

There were a bunch of dry bags hanging from a tree along Hidden Falls Creek, maybe they were a food drop

Odd place for a food drop, though. We didn't see them when we came through.

After a week of solitude, ... , I found the adjustment difficult.

Ha, I know. Our last night was on the Nth Routeburn flats (outside the 500m exclusion zone) and, on the super-highway back to the Shelter, we passed numerous obviously well-washed day-walkers (soap smells, perfume, make-up, etc etc) - back to Civilisation!

I often find myself thinking, towards the end of a longish walk, about just keeping walking.

Anyway, good luck on your next trip - Serpentine Range looks like a great tramp.