so, I got a big sheet of tyvek from Adam a few days ago. Id been looking to getting some from the US for a ground sheet so was very happy to get it local. i didnt know you could, but that was based solely on the fact that I'd never asked for it, just hadnt seen it on the shelves.
i have plans to make - a tub floor/groundsheet, a double bivy and or a two person tarp. (I have a homemade cat-cut trap i use for lightweight fair weather trips)
anyway,very first impression - very crinkly! very light, cant rip it with my bare hands.
crinkliness was helped very easily by scrunching a section all up into a ball and rubbing it all around for 10 seconds. Before I sew anything Ill wash it as recommended ona a number of us sites.
on further exam, I actually can tear it, but it seems to tear more easily from a cut edge. Once it goes it tends to go fairly quickly. Sometimes it tears 'normally' sometimes it more delaminates.
to be honest, would I pull on my tent that hard? Im not sure I would...
trialled sewing and glueing intially. First sewing was with a normal needle in a felled seam on a long stich length. I could not rip it myself, but two of us strapping young lads ripped it apart with a fair bit of force - it tore straight across the seam once it started. I also kwik-gripped another bit, again into effectively a felled seam (rolled over on itself - two layers of glue). this also required two of us to rip apart, but it went in two goes, one for each glue side, which implies to me a stronger bond. It also actually delaminated some sections rather than pulled the glue bond apart. this was also only after 12hours cure (kwik grip tube says 24hour for full strength)
assuming that the glue would be better, I then emailed Henry Shires (of Tarptent 'fame') about how he bonds his commercially made tyvek tarp tent. He recommended sewing it using a flat needle which makes slits rather than punches holes, also using the longest possible stitch length. He siad that ultimately glue will not last as long in the weather. He recommended gluing afterwards for sealing if required.
having got that advice, I went out and boughtthe nearest thing I could here - it turned out to be a leather needle, and I got it from a small shop where they answerd my questions. Spotlight was no good at all.
I sewed another section witha felled seam last night, longest stich possible, and pushed some silicone into half the seam. I also seamed both ends to more realistically represent the fabrication of a complete tarp. Gluing the seam woulndt give any extra strength and I dont think would be as water tight as silicone.
I havent given this the two perons rip test yet, but again I couldnt do it myself. I ll also be interested to see how the silicone vs non silicone section rips. If we cant rip it, ill unpick the extra seam and have another go, but thats for tonight.
REalisitcally, I wouldnt pull on my PU-coaten nylong tarp myself as hard as I can, so I can see its plently strong enough. I think the weakest point would potentialyl actually be the stitching not hte tyvek, as Im mean to aim for 6 stiches per inch (long!) which my sewing machine doesnt even do without me pulling the fabric through. Ill have to make sure I use good polyester cotton on it.
At this point, Im looking at makign a single wall tarptent with bug netting and a separate tub floor. I may also make the double bivy but will need more tyvek for that. Id rather have a tent anyday anyways, but it would at least guarantee two layers of protection between the rain and my sleeping bag

It should get a good trial in Jan on the overland, but will have shorter tests on single nighters before then.
well. I certainly wrote more than I meant to then. I leave more to questions if perople have any.
cheers
Lance