Many months in the planning, this walk in the wilds of Southern Tasmania demands thorough preparation as weather, terrain, vegetation and mud all conspire against the unwary.
Our route starts at an old limestone quarry near Ida Bay, 20km before Australia’s most southerly road end (and our final destination) Cockle Creek – although our group of 6 were taking the long way round.
Research had highlighted the limited camping space along the range so we had three 2-person tents (in hindsight, a couple of 1-person tents would have aided flexibility) and robust gloves to handle the Richea scoparia scrub-bashing. The plan was to aim for the Hill1/2 saddle for the first night, push across the Southern Range to Precipitous Bluff, descend to New River Lagoon and down to the South Coast track. From there it’s a simple stroll back to Cockle Creek – in total, 75km and 10 days (including a ‘weather-day’). The forecast was looking good – maybe we’d use that spare day to laze on a South Coast beach.
A pack weight of 20.6kg for the 10-day trip allowed for 7.6kg of dehy food, a litre of water, 1.8kg of shared tent (WE 1st Arrow – great tent). Even in moderate conditions, campsites will be damp (grading to puddles and creeks in serious rain) so a 4-season bathtub floor is a must.
Day 1 : 7km 6hrs : Start – Moonlight Creek
An early flight into Hobart saw us begin the climb up onto the Southern Range just before midday. Delightful Nothofagus, Leatherwood in flower, mosses, fungi and lichens everywhere. Some steep pinches soon saw us above the tree-line but no views as the mists swirled unbroken around us. Passing Bullfrog Tarns a second time highlighted the need for frequent referral to the compass – with no visual reference points, just following the track had turned us 180o and consumed an hour of our time. After a muddy slog into Moonlight Creek, we scratched together 3 campsites in the damp. 2km short of our target, an early start would allow catch up tomorrow.
The next 3 days across the range required many hours of pushing through near-impenetrable scrub, carefully avoiding bottomless mud pools, strolling across open tarn-dotted moors, lurching through tangled lichen-covered boulder fields, steep climbs and descents along exposed ridges – all good fun.
Day 2 : 10km 7hrs : Moonlight Creek – Ooze Lake
A better survey of Moonlight Creek in the morning uncovered a few other campsites above the track but the area is a miserable spot in wet conditions. Heading west from the campsite, boggy ground and 2m high vegetation is quickly left behind and a steep push to Hill 1 runs onto boardwalk that sidles to the north and into the saddle – there are many campsites here (and water from the tarn) but it’s very exposed.
- Climbing Hill 3
Day 3 : 8.5km 9.5hrs : Ooze Lake – Wylly Plateau
This was always going to be a long day – Chapman’s notes refer to waist high scrub and braided tracks – and we were not disappointed. The mist persisted but the immediate climb from Ooze had jackets off quickly. Open walking, the track gains the ridgeline in the saddle south of lake Mountain and continues to climb until it drops into the SE side. It was a relief to be out of the wind but the mist afforded only an occasional hint of the South Coast (was that wind or waves we could hear?). A sidle and another climb leads back to the ridgeline, and the sidetrack to Pindars Peak. With little visibility, we followed the track down the northern side under the Peak and back up to the descent ridge – a boulder field initially, giving way to thickening vegetation. A pause at Pandani Knob (a few reasonable campsites but a little exposed., no water evident) and then a plunge into scrub that varied from 3m to waist high – very tough going – which extends through to Wylly Plateau. Often boggy underfoot, this is the toughest section of the track. With nil visibility and a not-always-obvious track that weaves around like a mad-woman’s basket, direction needs to be watched carefully. Fortunately, most of the false leads had sticks across to indicate a wrong path but concentration was needed.
A lunch stop at Leaning Tea-tree Saddle revealed another miserable campsite – very restricted and wet. More scrub leads, eventually, into Wylly Saddle where there are a few small campsites. We considered stopping here but lack of water and limited space finally pushed us up onto the plateau proper where we found better water (although not abundant) and a few more camping options. Still cool and damp, we retreated to tents and an early night.
Day 4 : 4.2km 7.5hrs : Wylly Plateau – Low Camp
As the weather was starting to show signs of clearing, we decided to use our spare day and aim for Low Camp. We would have two short days but it would put us up on PB in clear and warm conditions.
- PB revealed from Kameruka Moraine
We still had a significant push in front of us and the combination of scrub and boulders on Kameruka Moraine was a surprise – much more tiring than anticipated. But spirits lifted as we approached PB and mists began to lift revealing islands sailing on the deep blues of the Southern Ocean, sandy beaches of the South Coast and PB itself – breathtaking. The track into Low Saddle seems to follow a creek to the south and below the saddle before swinging to the west and climbing back up but, finally, the hardened campsite was achieved and we managed to fit our 3 tents on it (not very many other options). Hardened with blocks of wood hammered into the peat, the surface was surprisingly comfortable (or was that just exhaustion?). Some decent weather allowed communal cooking and some conversation before sleep. With a late start in the offing and just a 2hr walk tomorrow, everyone was in great spirits.
Day 5 : 1km 2hrs : Low Camp – PB Plateau
A cut track (luxury :) leads to the base of the waterfall (visible from Low Saddle), crosses to the true left and climbs steeply to the base of the hanging valley which extends up to the Plateau. From the top of the waterfall, there is a paved track for most of the ascent. Finding a good tent site isn’t as easy as it might initially seem – the plateau is very exposed. Having fully explored potential sites, chosen and set up camp and lunched, we set off for the summit – WOW!
- PB Plateau campsite - very exposed
A leisurely day was thoroughly enjoyed; all the more so as sleep that night was fleeting with winds rising to gale-force, whipping up the face of PB like multiple steam trains and threatening to lash our tents to tatters.
Day 6 : 4km 7hrs : PB Plateau – Cavern Camp
From the east, the climb from Low Saddle is just 380m but the western descent to the lagoon is 1075m, initially near vertical but paved and straight-forward – a relief, as the wind had only moderated a little and wet mist had returned, blowing up into our faces.
- Descent from PB
Day 7 : 12km 6hrs : Cavern Camp – Osmiridium Beach
Before us, now. lay an 8km splash through New River Lagoon to the South Coast and a (relatively) easy 3 day stroll back to civilisation - in the form of Cockle Creek.
- New River Lagoon with PB looming above
Day 8 : 8km 4.5hrs ; Osmiridium Beach – Granite Beach
Day 9 : 12km 8hrs : Granite Beach – Lion Rock Camp
Day 10 : 8km 2.7hrs : Lion Rock – Cockle Creek
Two seriously hot days of 38deg (almost unheard of in these southern climes) made this last push more difficult than needed. Although a little cooler under the forest canopy, we drank copious quantities of water and slowed our pace to compensate. It was still demanding – camp and an ocean swim were strongly anticipated long before arrival. Campsites along the South Coast are lovely although spoiled by rubbish. I suspect that collected flotsam has been seen by some as a rubbish dump and the unthinking have dumped other rubbish too (tent, sleeping bag, frypan, plastic bags, bottles etc etc) – sad.
An easy, partly boardwalked, finish saw us in Cockle Creek at 10am – in time for a clean-up and a cuppa before pickup and the long trip home. A rewarding walk, enhanced by the tenacity of the Tasmanian bush and 6 resilient trampers.
