Well, that sucks... Had this written and then lost it bc I'd been automatically logged out! D'oh!!
Some quick overall notes:
- The 4 days covered 55-60km. GPS said 60km but I accidentally left it on at the campsite one night and we also had to double-back a couple of times.
- Super easy trail to follow. No maps, compass etc required. Could do it in the dark, with a headlamp, no problem at all.
- They make the beach sections sound more dangerous than they are... at least with the tides we were dealing with. We hit Johanna Beach right on high-tide with a big swell, and there was loads of beach to walk on with an ankle-deep river crossing. Same with Milanesia. Also, in the event you found yourself trapped on any of the beach sections we saw, there were easy areas to climb to wait until the tide dropped again (not ideal, but good to know you're not going to drown!). Can't vouch for the beach sections prior to Aire River.
- A lot of mobile coverage (Amaysim/Optus), including campgrounds.
- Shelters, toilets and water tank/s at each camp area. Shelters seat probably 10-12 people, with more standing area for probably 3-4.
- Days 2 + 3 easily the most challenging (and regarded as most challenging of entire walk, I believe)
Gear:
- Undercling_Mike's quilt. I had mine made to -5 comfort. Love it. The last couple of times I've taken it out (Mt Erica/GOW), I haven't bothered with straps - just wear it like a doona. Comfortable.
- Using the Sawyer mini as a filter to fill bottles was enough for me to buy a Platypus Gravity 4L, which is currently being delivered. Will likely look into Sawyer squeeze for different trips. This hike with tank/tap water, gravity system makes a lot of sense. Sawyer mini was painful. Not easy to decide on a filter. Feeling now is that Sawyer squeeze will be my ultimate choice.
- Dan Durston X-mid 2p. I'm still not entirely in love with this shelter but I want to love it, so I'm willing to give it every chance. The footprint is pretty significant. Having sat in a Hubba Hubba recently, the extra space from more vertical walls at head and foot is noticeable. Had to set up on slightly uneven ground and it worked better than expected. Tied the guy ropes out on this trip (including to trees) and it did make it feel very strong. Wouldn't want to be in a rush, setting it up in the rain. Still takes me a bit of time to get it up.
- One Planet Goondie 2. My brother uses this. It's great in that it's a simple setup, but you wouldn't want to be trying to fit two people in it. Far more cramped than my tent. Feels pretty bomber though. We both use LW Exped pads - no chance of fitting into his; could possibly squeeze into mine. I do get jealous at the ease of setup, but then he is envious of my space!
- To be honest, we're seriously considering a Z-packs Triplex for the two of us.. Would save a combined 2.5-3kg probably, which is pretty outrageous. On the flip side, we like being comfortable and dry, so a single-wall is a big concern. Need to investigate more. Also looking for a potential 4-season that fits our LW pads (so needs to be a 3 person).
- Exped Synmat LW 3D 7 (2020) pads. Very comfortable, very spacious. Weigh about 950g. I started practising sleeping on my back and I think I'm adjusting so might be able to get a second lighter pad at some point and keep this one for colder temps. Rated to -12 or so. Really think Exped make the best and most comfortable pads and I tried many before buying.
- Granite Gear Blaze 60 - love this pack. The light weight, large side pockets, plenty of straps for attachments. I think one of the biggest things (and probably very common now) is the removable lid - never thought it would be so convenient/useful. In saying all of that, I'm sure I'd love any well-designed pack - Osprey, Gregory etc. Do like having something a little less common. Unfortunately, something ate through my waist-belt pockets, damaging the material and ruining the zip.
- Fizan trekking poles (from Drop). Good, but one of them is starting to slip on the bottom section (ie, pole is shortening while walking). Haven't used them all that much (I use them as little as possible) so a bit disappointing.
Day 1 : Aire River to Johanna Beach (approx 14km)
- We were able to use daypacks today as folks tagged along with their caravan and met us at Johanna Beach. Made for a very easy hike.
- High tide and large swell, still easy to cross Johanna River and heaps of beach to walk on at Johanna Beach - no drama at all, despite warnings .. easy to find higher ground if you were to get stuck. We were concerned about it before we started and had a back-up plan to get picked up at Castle Cove lookout if we'd had to turn back. Just before we set off we saw a ranger and asked about and she said JB would be fine. She was right.
- The hike-in camp area not the easiest to find, but you will find it. If you weren't to find it, there are plenty of other areas to camp, at least at this time of year. It's on the GOW so you have to pass it sooner or later! For camp area, walk from beach exit out along gravel/unpaved road to day visitor area (probably 3-5 mins, past car-camping area, paddock). At the day visitor area head to trail leading to lookout (this is beach side of where cars park - if you went other direction, you'd be leaving the park). Almost immediately from beginning of that trail, turn right into grassy area where there will be a sign saying something like 'Johanna Beach camp ground - 400m'. 50m along this trail stick to right at fork (left runs into trees almost immediately so is a dead end anyway), follow the track for 7-10 mins .. runs into a T-intersection with sign to camp area (turn left), and arrows to Ryan’s Den (right) .. turn left at sign and walk 100m or so to camp area (past toilet). See photos below.
- 3 sites overlooking water (6,7,8) - apparently these are uneven but offer best views. 3 sites down below/slightly inland (3,4,5) - a narrow dirt track to these sites that begins kinda behind site 2 .. we stayed at 2 - largest and quite flat. Sites 1 + 2 are on the left, after the toilet, before the shelter.
- Shelter, toilet and water at camp area
- Fairly easy walk all told - took us about 3 hours (day packs). Think suggested time was 5 hours.
- More mobile coverage than expected
Day 2 : Johanna to Ryan’s Den (approx 14km)
- lots of 4WD track and paved/unpaved road for roughly the first half of day, back into bush second half.. didn’t mind the road/4WD - still felt like an adventure. Lots of ups and downs for the most part, quite a bit of climbing for the last couple of kms
- Same warnings for Milanesia Beach re tide, same easy river crossings and beach walk despite arriving at high tide and with large swell. In saying that, we had to take the first exit (which is the main exit - can’t miss it). We did walk past it to see if there was another exit and we could see one in the distance that we couldn’t reach bc of tide ... good result bc the track looked terrible when we saw where it joined up. Wouldn’t think it would have made for a fun walk. Definitely take the first/main exit.
- Much harder walk today - especially the last couple of kms
- Can’t miss the campground .. a couple of kms before campground there is a sign out to Great Ocean Road (1km away) if you have to bail for some reason. Can also leave a car here apparently - someone we spoke to did.
- Phone mostly on flight mode, but strong coverage at camp area, esp the lookout, shelter areas and the loo for those inclined!
- Sites more spread out than previous night
- Took us about 4hrs (not including the 20mins walking past the main exit of Milanesia). Think suggested time was 5.5hrs.
Day 3: Ryan's Den to Devil's Kitchen (approx 13km)
- Rain when woke up. First time I've had the X-mid in the rain. Dry inside. If we weren't such slow movers in the morning, we'd have gotten up and out before it rained (forecast on BOM was accurate (showers for a short time from 7am)) .. The other pair of hikers were up and out in the dry before we got up. We tended to take off about 11-11.45 each morning.
- Animal chewed through waist-belt pocket at some point after we'd set up camp the night before, where I'd accidentally left snack food. Damaged material, ruined zip. Fairly new Granite Gear Blaze 60 so a bit of a bummer. At least they sell the waist-belt as a separate item if I can't get it repaired. Any suggestions for a repairer?
- Took us almost 5hrs but big diversion on Wreck Beach (45mins+) bc of tide coming in and small diversion to Gable Lookout (10-15mins). Would have been 4hrs direct. Suggested 5.5hrs I think. Wreck Beach was a howler of a decision as it turned out, but we did get to see the anchors so wasn't a total waste of time. Lots and lots of steps down and lots and lots of steps back up when we had to turn around! The other pair walking to our schedule (day-to-day schedule) left much earlier in the day and took the beach route - they said the water was right up even then. Inland track was nice too.
- First 2hrs up and down a fair bit tougher - muddy and slippery. Easy going through the middle section, dragged on a bit at end.
- Shelter, water, toilet at campground .. Mobile coverage at toilet and lookout, from memory.
Day 4: Devil's Kitchen to 12 Apostles (approx 16km)
- Easier going again today. Took about 4hrs, but we jogged a fair bit of last 2km or so. Stopped at Princetown for a coffee with the folks who had camped at the reserve with their caravan the previous night. We carried our packs to the end though.
- Stopped for a time just before Gellibrand River to watch a surfer being towed in on the large surf. Faces of waves must have been 3.5-4m - maybe more. Pretty cool.
- Walked past a snake maybe 3kms from end. Could only see tail. Looked like a tiger to my untrained eye, but apparently it's almost impossible to ID a snake from its scales so could easily have been a python I guess. Saw another snake at 12 Apostles lookout - it was a white-lipped snake (ID'd by expert).
- Took us about 1.5hrs from Princetown to 12 Apostles but that was with the little bit of jogging.
- Weary by the end. Sore feet. Knees started playing up after jogging with full packs - that was a dumb idea.
Overall, a nice hike. Well established and good facilities. Some great coastal views and enough climbing to make it a bit of a workout.