Day 1: Stockton - the longest beach in NSW – the trek begins

Text and photosGreg Keaney

The lone and level sands stretch far away.

Ozymandias

Percy Bysshe Shelley

Greg is walking from ‘Dreamtime to Eden’ along the length of the NSW coast. The first six stages of the walk appear in previous issues of this magazine (commencing in June 2024). In this article Greg recounts the 7th stage of the coast walk; 5 days and 129km from Anna Bay near Port Stephens to Terrigal on the Central Coast.

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Day 1: Stockton - the longest beach in NSW – the trek begins

I’m doing a ‘thousand mile, thousand beaches’ NSW coastal camino, aiming to walk almost every beach and headland of this magnificent edge of the Pacific. I do the walk in stages and this article recounts Stage 7 from Anna Bay a little south of Port Stephens to Terrigal on the Central Coast. This stage was 5 days of incredibly varied coastal sauntering, plenty of long stretches of sand, a grand mix of the urban and the wild, idyllic scenery and, as usual, a plethora of outstanding beaches and headlands. Just glorious!

Day 1: Anna Bay to Newcastle 38km, 11 hours

It was a magical start to Stage 7 of my coastal camino with a glorious (but lengthy) walk along Stockton Beach, which, at 34kms, is the longest beach in NSW. Add on a couple of clicks of wandering into and around the amazing dunes, and a couple more at the end for Little Beach and then from the foreshore to the wharf, and it ended up being a long, long, long day's walk.

I kicked off at sunrise on a cool, cloudy day - perfect weather for this long-haul coastal ramble. The amazing Anna Bay dunes and

a few early morning horse riders provided an exquisite start. It was then followed by a 2-hour stroll along the sand. Next was a thermos coffee stop at the post-apocalyptic Tin City, a remnant of desperation and homelessness during the 1930s depression. The shacks are on a 100-year lease, so some lucky descendants of less fortunate ancestors can stay amidst the incredible dunes and pretend to be Mad Max (it features in the first movie). Such an awe-inspiring place!

While it was a lot of sandy walking, the majesty of the dunes that back this astonishing stretch of sand – undulating perfection 3km wide for many, many kilometres - made this a perfect spot for a long uninterrupted period of walking meditation.

Day 1: A faster way to travel

Day 1: Tin City

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The wreck of the MV Sygna, which used to be a feature near the southern end of the beach when I was a lad, has now all but disappeared - the sea takes care of its own as they say. Not sure if it's related, but Stockton has to be one of the 'rippiest' beaches I've ever seen - and I've seen a few in my time. There’s a really steep entry into the water with swirling cross currents and ever-changing rips as the soft sand jostles and swirls under the swells. Definitely not the place for a cheeky swim. Fortunately for me, the day was cool, and no dolphins were beckoning me in!

Sad to see a dead turtle on the beach. It triggered a somewhat morbid curiosity as to why seaside scavengers consume all the flesh around the head and flippers but seem to leave the rest. With suitable pilgrim’s reverence I said a little farewell to ‘Shelley the turtle’ - so named because the carcass reminded me of the death of the poet Percy Bysshe Shelley. (He died in a sailing accident and his body washed up on a beach near Viareggio in Italy. He could only be identified by the clothes he wore, and the book of poetry in his pocket as his face and hands had been eaten away by fish and crabs. On the plus side he did get a dramatic beachside cremation, as the painting by Louis Édouard Fournier, the Funeral of Shelley, dramatically illustrates).

Day 1: 4WD exit to Williamtown via Lavis Lane midway along the beach

Day 1: Alas poor Shelley…

Day 1: These boots were made for walking

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Shelley the turtle’s little tragedy, and thoughts of the untimely deaths of the romantic poets, were more than made up for as I wandered ever southwards by probably the best collection of driftwood resting logs on the coast so far - just right for a lot of coastal camino reflection as I trudged my weary way ever southwards.

I finished the day with a ferry crossing of the Hunter River. In the NSW northern rivers package that meant that the Tweed, Richmond, Clarence, Macleay, Hastings, Manning and now Hunter had all been crossed with only the Hawkesbury left between me and Sydney. So I was feeling mighty chuffed on the ferry across the Hunter to Newcastle, with an extra little chuckle knowing that it wouldn’t mean anything to almost anyone else - it was kind of sweet to have a cheer group of three - me, myself and I!

Spent the night in comfort in ever enthralling Newcastle which was such a contrast to the isolation of the ocean of sand that is Stockton Beach. If you want sand, sand and more sand then Stockton and its mighty mobile dunes (the largest in Australia) would definitely be the place for you. And if you don't fancy walking the whole beach in one large bite there are exits at Williamtown and Fern Bay, both with bus connections to the ferry across to Newcastle.

Day 2: Newcastle to Swansea 28km, 10 hours

Day 2 provided a spectacular contrast to the first day’s walk, with a near perfect combination of urban and wild coast walking. The Newcastle coastal walk from Nobbys to Merewether was a classic Aussie urban coast walk, on par with the famous Bondi to Coogee one but minus the crowds. As well as the magnificent beaches, headlands, ocean pools and pavilions, the memorial 'skyway' was a real highlight. The Anzac Memorial Bridge skyway traverses the headlands between the Bogey Hole and Susan Gilmore Beach. I just love to see engineering excellence dedicated to walkers rather than cars! Sensational! Also, Bogey Hole is the earliest known example of a purpose-built ocean swimming pool in Australia - hand carved by convicts on a rocky

Day 1: The Stockton ferry across the Hunter River

Day 2: The Anzac Memorial ‘skywalk’

Day 2: Everything is awesome

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platform in 1819 for the personal use of the Commandant of Newcastle, Major James Morisset.

South of Merewether Beach was an absolutely beautiful coastal bushwalk with loads of quiet beaches, outstanding lookouts, amazing cliffs and escape spots 'far from the madding crowd'. This stretch from Merewether to Redhead was just indescribably perfect. Big cities in NSW are so fortunate to have these immense stretches of unspoilt coastal perfection so close to their suburbs. The Yuelarbah track wends south from Merewether, past its enormous ocean pools and then on to deserted Burwood Beach. If you want a wild swim then Murdering Gully (love the name), Glenrock Beach and Glenrock Lagoon had no-one else there besides me that morning and were just exquisite in the early summer sunshine.

Those who are familiar with the Great North Walk will know that it heads inland from the northern side of Glenrock Lagoon, but I stayed with the sand and the sea and climbed a little unmarked trail up to the Goat Track (that's its actual, and very suitable, name) and across Little Redhead cliff down to Dudley Beach. At the very southern tip of Dudley Beach there was a link trail up to Deb's Lookout and then it was through the Awabakal Nature Reserve to Redhead Beach. This stretch was just a sublime part of the coast which (perhaps thankfully) does not seem to have yet got the fame it truly deserves.

Sadly for my Stockton sand weary legs, (and all those little muscles that I never knew existed), it was then a 13km+ beach stroll from Redhead to Blacksmiths and the ocean entrance to Lake Macquarie. That being said the weather was fine, the sand was fairly firm, and the Blacksmiths dunes were a sight to behold.

I crossed Lake Macquarie at The Swansea Bridge which opened just as I walked across - and even a (very) weary walker has just gotta love an opening bridge!

A long hot shower, an ale or two and a good night's sleep were a perfect tonic for my tired legs – and I fell asleep with thoughts of the next slew of headlands and beaches to enjoy south of Swansea. Lucky me...

Day 2: Glenrock Beach

Day 2: The Bogey Hole

Day 2: Redhead Beach towards Nine Mile and Blacksmiths

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Day 3: Swansea to Budgewoi 29km, 10 hours

Day 3 was another magnificent day on our mighty coast. There was incredible variety and some of the best beaches I've seen so far. Ghosties Beach, with its towering cliffs and impressive ocean cave, was a highlight of the day’s walk and has definitely earned a golden buzzer in the ‘best beach in NSW’ award.

The day turned out to be a wonderfully inspirational section of coastal walking – made even better knowing that it sits in the well-populated area between the urban areas of Newcastle and the Central Coast. Wallara National Park and Munmorah State Conservation Area cover much of this day’s walk. Google maps was pretty accurate for the trails (providing that you zoom right in), but it can be confusing with the plethora of options available. Mobile reception can be patchy here so I was glad that I had

downloaded the area before setting out so that I could use maps off-line, with the satellite ping still fairly accurate in providing my location.

Day 3: Caves Beach

Day 3: Another marvellous sunrise

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I noted that if I did get lost, there were quite a few management trails (dirt road size) that are very easy to follow, but that being said, this is a part of the world that is a pleasure to simply get lost in... and wherever you end up there'll always be a perfect beach somewhere!

South of Swansea it was Caves Beach, Spoon Rock, Pinny Beach, The Shark Hole, Baldy Cliff, Middle Camp Gully and Catherine Hill Bay, with its fascinating old jetty and perfect pub. I had to stop for a lunchtime refreshment at 'The Catho' (sadly only a softie as there was still a lot more wandering ahead). Beautiful Moonee Beach (tragically now overlooked by an unsympathetic development at the very northern end), perfect Ghosties, Bongon, Frazer and Deadmans (the slippery, steep, gravelly climb up to the headland might explain the gruesome name) Beaches, Wybung Headland, Tea Tree Lookout, and then, in a wonderful finale, the beach walk along Birdie and Budgewoi Beaches with their astounding dunes. Wow, just wow!

Once again, I reflected on the fact that while the human world might be falling apart, the cure is at hand for those of us lucky enough to be living in, or visiting, NSW. All you have to do is pack a sandwich, a hat, a bit of sunscreen, and plenty of water and make a pilgrimage to this stretch of coastal magnificence. Restoration guaranteed! Like a great smile, our coast costs nothing and gives much.

Day 4: Budgewoi to The Entrance 19km, 6 hours

Day 4 was a pretty stretch of beaches, headlands and coastal towns from Budgewoi to The Entrance. Lakes Beach and Hargraves Beach lead on to Jenny Dixon Beach and Norah Head Beach and Rockpool. Norah Head Lighthouse on the tip of the headland was great, (as is every lighthouse, always). Lighthouses are such a powerful symbol of humans cooperating and helping strangers and I always find a lighthouse visit to be immensely uplifting.

Had to leave the beach for some impassable sections north of Norah Head but then it was an outstanding beach walk from Norah Head Lighthouse to Soldiers Beach and onwards, down low around the headlands. Great cliff

Day 3: Spoon Rocks Lookout

Day 3: Frazer Sea Cave near Snapper Point

Day 3: Catherine Hill Bay Jetty

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formations, nice mix of rock platforms and sand and some incredible sand dunes - just what the doctor ordered. A little bit of inspiration and plenty of options for a dip on a beautiful summer day.

After rounding Pelican Point it was an 8.2km beach walk to Karagi Point (sand spit) on the north side of The Entrance. Waded across the channel which seemed like cheating compared to the long road bridge a little inland. The entire beach is backed by a barrier system between the lake and the sea and, as the northern dunes are located in Wyrrabalong National Park, it gives this stretch a wonderfully remote feel.

I crossed Tuggerah Lakes at Dunleith Point at low tide – the current was strong here and it would be safer to walk a short way inland to the Entrance Bridge. I stayed the night at The Entrance which is (obviously) the ocean-side entrance to another of the massive lakes that sit behind much of the coast between the Hawkesbury and Manning Rivers. I've always been a 'beach guy' rather than a 'lake guy' but these enormous lakes are incredibly beautiful. Amazing birdlife with the array of pelicans being perhaps the most dramatic, but plenty of other sea, shore and land birds all around. Glorious!

This shorter day on Day 4 helped me to realise that around 20km is a good par for me for multi-day beach walking – the long days previously are fine in isolation but might lead to some unwanted injuries when done in succession. Many other factors do come into it though, particularly weather and tides. A falling tide on a calm, cool, sunny day with a light backing breeze is the perfect recipe - but if you wait for ideal conditions, you won't get very far - a bit like life, I guess.

Planning a coast walk is usually pretty straightforward. I start out by noting the highlights - headlands, lookouts, beaches (of course), lighthouses, caves and picnic areas and any areas where I may need to divert or detour. On the NSW coast it is a 95% certainty that you can find a way through or around most of the difficulties – although I have learned that you can be misled looking at 2D maps for a 3D real world!

Day 4: Budgewoi Lake

Day 3: Nimbin Beach

Day 4: Lighthouse Beach, Norah Head

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I’ve started to think about what a 10/10 day looks like for me on this walk. I think it would start and end in a smallish town and include a mix of wild places and the odd 'tame' beach with access to drinking water along the way. The odd stretch of bush that is big enough to get lost in but small enough not to be threatening and a few perfect places for a rest along the way. While today didn't have anything truly wild, Norah Headland, Gravs (Gravelly), Pebbly, Soldiers, Pelican, Magenta, Tuggerah and North Entrance Beaches were all remarkably 'lonely' for such a perfect summer day and I marvelled yet again how easy it is to ‘get away from it all’ if one is willing to walk a few clicks. I even had a great swim with a pod of dolphins at Magenta Beach. I body-surfed a couple of waves with my dolphin buddies beside me... another moment of absolute bliss.

Day 4: The Entrance

Day 4: Norah Head Lighthouse

Day 4: Soldiers Beach

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Day 5: The Entrance to Terrigal 15km, 5 hours

Started off the morning with a short sand, rock and high tide splash around from The Entrance to Toowoon Bay. After a coffee and a wonderful bushwalking chat with a local follower at the remarkably busy, and very pretty, SLSC cafe, I continued around to Shelly Beach. Blue Lagoon and beautiful Bateau Bay Beach (no boats and not, technically, a bay - but that's Aussie place names for you) followed and from there it was the Wyrrabalong Coastal Walk trail up to Crackneck Lookout (now that's a mighty fine name), Wyrrabalong Lookout and on to Forresters Beach. There were still plenty of flannel flowers along the way and these must have been even more magnificent a few weeks earlier in full bloom. Wyrrabalong is another of the many great coastal bushwalk trails - especially if you're looking for an easy coastal walk on a well-made track with amazing views.

Day 5: View from Wyrrabalong Lookout

Day 5: Wyrrabalong Coastal Walk

Day 5: Blue Bay

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I was delighted to then meet up with one of my closest friends at gorgeous Spoon Bay. Spoon Bay looks idyllic but has had some tragic drownings in recent years - very powerful rips immediately outside the protected rock pools. Wonderful place nevertheless!

Next was a convivial chat and the final stretch across Wamberal and Terrigal Beaches with the Skillion coming ever closer. And then I ended the day and the week and this section of the walk with an afternoon tea (and an afternoon beer) with my sister and her husband before jumping on a train to return home for the night.

Conclusion

I was only heading home for the weekend though. I would be returning to Terrigal on the Sunday evening to continue my coastal journey to the very heart of Sydney. Like a hobbit crawling ever closer to Mt Doom, Sydney was getting ever closer. The plan for Stage 8 was to 'arrive' at The Opera House at the end of the stage and then celebrate completion of 'The Northern Way' on my NSW coastal camino. Heave ho!

Day 5: Wyrrabalong National Park

Day 5: Michałowski Point

Day 5: Spoon Bay

Day 5: Bateau Bay

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